S400 Build

[flynbrian]

Cool....I too saw the thread about the cooking pot over at that other site. Sounds like 10 pounds is the magic number for a street car.....lol.

[70 bird]

Originally Posted by 71 GrandPrix SJ

thats what i figured BUT the DIY thread on ttf about that was a different design turbo with a bolt on downpipe. he just simply bolted it to the flange. the s400s have a v-band. i cant figure out how to safely secure one to it aside from some tack welds to teh turbine housing. also the issue of aiming the radiant heat directly towards the compressor.
also looks like the paint is staying on your downpipe so far. which brand did you use?
also could you disclose what size pot you grabbed? they might look at me funny when im standing in the cookware isle sticking a large iron object in their pots for fitment

The pot is mounted with the bottom facing the compressor, the heat is directed to the downpipe. I used a large stainless hose clamp to secure the shield. I had the clamp from when I worked at a ford dealer we used them to secure ratteling heat shields.

The paint is vht so-far so good!

When are you going to start posting some pictures of your build?? The more info that is put out here the better!

[71 GrandPrix SJ]

would you be able to get a closer shot of the shield? im going out tonight to hopefully find a suitable pot to use. i have a few ideas for securing it but pics of yours would help.
my build is just about ready. ill get started soon. i just want to have all the small chit done first like the heat shield ect. im not big on takin pics during so likely it'll be of everything done

[turbo69BIRD]

My hot side is coated and I still get crazy heat under the hood.
The shield is a great Idea.

[Bruce Wilkie]

I like unlikely sources for useful items. Clever! I recently finished my 5 litre mini keg of Heineken. It will serve as my water/alky injection tank. I'll take some pics and post when its done. Should I leave it look as is? Or Polish? Or paint?

[70 bird]

Originally Posted by Bruce Wilkie

I like unlikely sources for useful items. Clever! I recently finished my 5 litre mini keg of Heineken. It will serve as my water/alky injection tank. I'll take some pics and post when its done. Should I leave it look as is? Or Polish? Or paint?

I would leave it as-is. Those cans look cool!

[turbo69BIRD]

I need to see a pic.
I'm not a beer drinker.

[ponjohn]

Terriffic info here. Awesome documentation.

What is the large diameter pipe going forward off of the turbo in front of radiator?
How did you supply the turbo with oil?

John

[70 bird]

Originally Posted by ponjohn

Terriffic info here. Awesome documentation.

What is the large diameter pipe going forward off of the turbo in front of radiator?
How did you supply the turbo with oil?

John

Thanks for the compliment, in front of the turbo is the air inlet. The turbo flange is 5in. I used a reducer to 4in. 90 deg. steel tube where I attached the largest k&n style filter I could find. For oil supply I used a 1/4 in steel tube from the oil port next to the dist.

[turbo69BIRD]

I have a 5 inch Kand N filter that I don't use anymore(beat up) but I unfortunately don't have the part number or anything.
I got it from a freind who does diesel stuff so I know they make really big air filters but I noticed they are hard to find or non exsistent in the catalogs.


I cant imagine they would have discontinued them with all the turbo stuff guys are building these days

[turbo69BIRD]

Some guys are builing aluminum boxes with openings in the sides and sliding the flat filters into the side panels too.

[ponjohn]

When talking turbo camshafts is smaller better?

Jeff- I notice you run well into the 9's on a non ported cylinder head, how much boost?...friggin' amazing.

[turbo69BIRD]

Originally Posted by ponjohn

When talking turbo camshafts is smaller better?

Jeff- I notice you run well into the 9's on a non ported cylinder head, how much boost?...friggin' amazing.

That was done at 11 psi.
Small cam shafts are all thats needed when the cam is built right and matched to the combo.

Obviously if you had big heads that had low velocity and were designed to work in a high rpm range you would want to build a cam to work with that set up.

If you were to run a stock type head with good velocity and low rpm charicterisics you would want to optimize those aspects of the cam.

Matching a set up is paramount in any set up N/A, or turbo

A well thought out matched set up can often beat the trick part of the week set up thats not matched well.

Just look at jim hand and what he did for years with pretty stock stuff.

A turbo will usually ad 1000 RPM to any set up so a 6000 RPM matched set up will work theoretically to 7000 RPM.

Obviously thats barring mechanical failure of valve springs, con rods etc.

[sleeper67]

Speaking of valve springs. how is everyones valvetrain holding up using flat tappet cams. I been wondering and instead of searching, I just wanted to ask. I know the pressure has to be up some to compensate for the boost. So is it up to where the cam starts to go away? Or is this something where as you go 20 or better, I figure go to a roller.

[turbo69BIRD]

I have run a lot of solid flat tappet cams and they have all come back out in good condition. I have never knocked alobe off or any of the wierd stuff I hear of people doing.
maybe because I run oil witha lot of moly?
Not sure but they are cheap they work well and very rarely need adjustment from my experience.

The roller will make alittle more power but to me its not needed since I am not running a class where all out performance is needed. Only if I needed to extract every last bit of HP would I spend the extra cash on my own engines

Then Again I am happy when My car runs in the 9's I really don't feel a need to go 8's yet.

To be honest I would be happy running consistent 10.00's and having a lot of longevity these days. getting old I guess LOl

[70 bird]

I am running the summit 2802 cam and lifters my valve springs are comp 995-16 at 1.7 installed height with 120 seat pressure. I havent run into any cam problems in any motors I have built at home or at work? maybe luck, I dont know. I only run my motor up to a max of 5600 rpm seems to pull fine. If I was to run more boost and more rpm's I would expect valve float problems. For low boost I dont think you need alot of fancy parts. jmo.

[turbo69BIRD]

I shift mine at 5800 and through the traps about 6600 RPM as a guess I am not watching the tach at that point>LOL

I can say I have hit the rev limiter at 6400 a couple times in the traps so Thats about where I am Its set at 6800 now and I never hit it.

[Chris Petersen]

I was wondering the same thing with flat tappet cams.

I was going to try the Crower solids with the cool face option, hopping that will lessin the chance of a lobe falure.

Any one tried those lifters with the tiny oil feed hole in the bottom of the lifter?

[marks73ta]

My N/A cam was a Crower solid and I used the cool face solids. 264/268 @ .050 and .552/.560 lift. About 4,000 miles total since install with alot of cold starting as most miles were very small runs/short drives. I just pulled them to replace the cam for a more friendly turbo cam and there was hardly any wear and the wear pattern on the cam was very really minimal. I would recommend them to anyone. I was very happy with the Crower parts. Mark L

[marks73ta]

I'm going to fess up here. I reinstalled the used cool face lifters on my new Comp Cam due to the cool face option. I would never do this with a standard lifter. I bought solids from Comp for the new cam but the pushrod cup sits way down in the lifter compared to the Crower and it caused the roller rockers to drop down and jam against the stud shaft (on the radius at the nut). I would have needed at least .300 longer push rods to compensate. Don't know what lifter Comp sent me as the oil relief is correct but the pushrod cup is way down in the lifter. Snap ring is at that depth also so the cup is not just collapsed. SO, on the used lifter aspect. Let the flogging begin. Mark L