PONTIAC ZONE TECH FORUMS
 

Go Back   PONTIAC ZONE TECH FORUMS >
Restoration and General Tech
> Paint and Body Q&A
User Name
Password

Paint and Body Q&A Bodyshop tips, tricks, Q&A in here.

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 10-19-06, 01:02PM   #1
flynbrian
Registered User
 
flynbrian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Middletown Ohio
Posts: 963
Default DuPont Centari, Single stage....Anything I need to know?

I just bought some Dupont Centari Single stage 99A black to do my 74' Monte Carlo with....I have painted before but a really long time ago. I wanted something fairly cheap and durable but I also only wanted to have to mix and shoot once...I bought the low temp reducer, and the Centari Gloss hardener my total was $250 even for enough to make 2 gallons sprayable.
I just bought a new ATD HVLP gun set and have heard really good things about this $99 3 gun set.

I am using Evercoat "Slick Sand" 2K primer/filler first and then the Black single stage...The car is in original paint now and I removes the vinyl top for good.

Who knows anything about this paint? Any tricks? anything I need to know etc,.? And is it good Paint for a Acrylic Enamel? The car is Garaged and driven only sometimes, No Salt Or Snow just fair weather....Pampered.
flynbrian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-06, 02:25PM   #2
flynbrian
Registered User
 
flynbrian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Middletown Ohio
Posts: 963
Default

Last long.....Relative to what standards...If the car is garaged, little sun, little rain, kept waxed and cared for....??? Should I get 10 years out of it?....The original paint is 32 years old and wasn't too bad except some idiot repainted the car at Maaco/Earl Scheib or something...I scraped that paint off with a razorblade in no time flat....The original paint looked fine and shiny underneath...I fixed the rust from the vinyl roof and welded up some patches that were behind the trim....(That I had no idea was there until I removed) I am almost done welding....Soon to start filling in the next day or two...How cold is too cold to spray this paint? I bought the low temperature reducer...I am painting in my garage and I only have a Propane Torpedo heater....Should I just get the car and garage really hot and shut it down and paint? Is it really that unsafe to paint with open flame burner? I have a friend who uses a box fan in the window and some furnace filters....All the time he is spraying his heater is running continuously...His theory is if you have a roaring flame the whole time that the flammable solvents in the air get burned through the heater before they get a chance to build up enough to be explosive...
flynbrian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-06, 02:53PM   #3
tweety
the blue canary
 
tweety's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: somewhere in the twilight zone
Posts: 786
Default

Centari was an excellent paint. I used it a lot since it was introduced in 76. You can spray it on pretty wet, it's hard to run. I can't say for sure about using an HVLP gun though I still haven't used one yet. I'm still spraying with my GJA devilbiss for the little bit of painting I still do. It held out really well, I saw a few of my old jobs that still looked good after 20 years done with Centari.
THese were paint jobs done on cars that were mostly daily drivers, at least for the first few years. I'll try to add a couple of pics of my Mustang after we did it in Centari back in 76. It was my first job in Centari and one of my first paint jobs. Ok, it worked. The pics were 30 years old when I downloaded them into my computer and don't do the paint job justice. Let me say that the car sold us probably 30 more body and paint jobs within 3 months of it being done. I didn't even know Dupont still had it available. Up here they replaced Centari with the Nason line a couple of years ago. Maybe you lucked into some old stock.
Oh yeah, I almost forgot. Don't use your propane heater. I made that mistake years ago when painting in an unheated shop. Propane puts a lot of condensation into the air and it gets into your paint and onto the surface of the car. You don't see it til the paint starts to pinhole and bubble in a coupleof years.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Scan10021 (WinCE).JPG
Views:	331
Size:	10.3 KB
ID:	11563   Click image for larger version

Name:	Scan10018 (WinCE).JPG
Views:	398
Size:	11.6 KB
ID:	11564  
__________________
Why do we never have enough time to do it right, but we always have enough time to do it over?

Last edited by tweety : 10-19-06 at 02:57PM. Reason: add info
tweety is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-06, 04:54PM   #4
flynbrian
Registered User
 
flynbrian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Middletown Ohio
Posts: 963
Default

Cool, Great to know....So what type of heat should I look at? Could I rent a Kerosene heater? The local Carpaint store in West Carrolton Ohio has all kinds of Centari on the shelf....They did comment that they get it mixed for color already and they cant do any custom mixing of it. The stock is not old either, They sell Dupont, nason, and Spies hecker, products.
I made the comment about Centari being a cheap paint since its AE and they said "No" Its not cheap paint....Just older technology and they said it is the best premium AE you can buy....I was told that it is very durable and way better than the stuff alot of Maaco's use that tend to give AE a bad name. I got solid color "Pitch Black"....One bodyshop told me to spray Delstar and that I would like it...But Carpaint said that this Centari is the Equivelant to Delstar. Just Premium DuPont brand.

I was told that they at the store had played with spraying this paint all the way down to 50 degree's F. And that it still worked good just took alot longer to dry....
My garage is Concrete Block and I am hanging plastic in the ceiling and there is no bugs anymore (Or soon) Flying around....I am going to hose the floor and walls, wash them with detergent and rinse before I spray anything. I will crack the doors and spray....once the fumes are gone I will close the doors and crank on some heat. I painted a Jeep black outside and it turned out well but it was many years ago....
flynbrian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-06, 05:06PM   #5
flynbrian
Registered User
 
flynbrian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Middletown Ohio
Posts: 963
Default

After I saw a garage that a buddy paints in the other day, Mine is Sterile and sanitary in comparison....He has junk in his rafters and dusty parts laying in every nook and cranny everywhere and he says he doesn't put up plastic or anything..He uses a box fan in the window and a few furnace filters....And his paint jobs look very good. Mine should look good as long as a neighbor isn't mowing his grass or sweeping out a garage down the alley....But grass mowing season is almost over and most of my neighbors are too lazy to sweep...I dont have to worry about people being nosy of my painting either because many dont own their houses and many really dont care.
I thought about painting the car in sections as I get it ready....Any thoughts? Its a solid color and I am not worried about it matching up perfect....I plan to Sand and buff it later on too.

One of my friends is a pro painter and has a $600 gun, He mentioned coming over and spraying it for me when I am ready...He said if he sprays it I wont need to buff or anything. (His work is really good) So maybe, But I want to spray it myself to say so, Ya know?
I will paint the hood underside and trunk & doorjambs myself regardless...So If I dont feel comfortable after that I may let Jamie do it.
flynbrian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-06, 07:47PM   #6
A. X.
 
Posts: n/a
Default

My 77 has been sprayed with Centrari jet black. After a good color sand and polish, so many people think it's been clear coated, because the shine is awesome. Durability is my problem, but only because of where I live. Gravel chips keep me on the paint constantly doing touch ups. As for fading, if your car is kept polished or waxed with a good product, you should not have a problem with that.
  Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-06, 08:06PM   #7
tweety
the blue canary
 
tweety's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: somewhere in the twilight zone
Posts: 786
Default

The store is right. Centari never was a low quality paint. It always was Dupont's finest. It's still up there with the best of them in my opinion. An experienced painter can get the same gloss as base-clear with it. I know, I have. If you're not going to use heat till after the fumes clear and the paint flashes, a kerosene heater would be fine. Or you could even use electric heaters, just don't have them in the garage while you're painting. Also you're better off to paint at or above 55*, but 50 is ok. Delstar was a good highgloss paint also. And easy to spray, but I didn't like the hold - out. It tended to fade quite a bit after a few years. I like your idea of painting it yourself. There's nothing like that feeling and yes, if you're not comfortable with it after you've got your edges done maybe you should consider letting your pal do the main body and practicing more before tackling a full on paint job. I don't really believe in doing a panel or two at a time. You simply get a better job when you do it all at once. That way you are removing the variables of differences in pressure, mix, technique etc. There are too many things that can change on different days. Doing door edges etc on a different day than the outside of the car is fine though for obvious reasons.
__________________
Why do we never have enough time to do it right, but we always have enough time to do it over?
tweety is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-06, 10:37PM   #8
INJUNTOM
 
Posts: n/a
Default

yep, have had good luck with Centari....too bad it's outlawed around here.
  Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-06, 02:20PM   #9
fuelalterd
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 14
Default

Centari is an excellent paint. At our boy shop (P+E Body and Fender) we used Dupont "factory packages" for paint repairs for years. It was very expensive. About the mid seventies( I think) Centari enamal was introduced to the market. This paint was very affordable and still is today. I can't comment on the shine durabilty time line but once it dried it was one tough coating and easy to take care of.
fuelalterd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-06, 12:09AM   #10
lightnin
Registered User
 
lightnin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: woodbury tennessee
Posts: 78
Default

dupont centari??????
i used it plenty.it wont last very long.<10 years>
it is resistent to just about anything you can get on it.
spray it wet and it will stay wet.just reducethe last coat a little more
good luck !
__________________
go fast or get out of my way !!!!!!!!!!!
lightnin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-06, 11:54AM   #11
flynbrian
Registered User
 
flynbrian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Middletown Ohio
Posts: 963
Default

I will be very happy if it lasts ten years. Sounds like I picked a decent alternative to B/C based on price. After ten years If I still have the car I would want something different anyway paintwise.
I had a person tell me that it is easy to 'run' this paint and that if I am not careful that the paint will end up on the floor...I planned on doing a light tack coat then 2-3 medium wet coats all allowing them to flash off for at least 15-30 minutes. On the trunk lid inside and the door jambs I was just going to do a tack coat and 1-2 medium/ lighter coats since it wont be color sanded or abused.
I know about how to hold the gun and how to spray the roof and banding techniques but should I start at the bottom of the car and work up or from the top down? Which will produce less chance of runs especially with the cooler temps?
flynbrian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-06, 12:10PM   #12
flynbrian
Registered User
 
flynbrian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Middletown Ohio
Posts: 963
Default

Injuntom....Cant you get one of us to ship you some of this stuff? California sucks with its tree hugger laws...You may not be able to buy it there but I am sure you could get one of us guys to do it....UPS can ship HazMat...I would find someone in the nearest state to you that does sell it to ship some in....Or take a drive...
I dont let laws like that stop me....What are they gonna do? Send the Paint police after ya? Just like permits to work on my house....Never ever got one and my stuff on my house is done better than code anyway....Technically its not legal for me to even buy that paint here but I did...And its not legal for me to spray it at home, but I will...There is no one to police it...My local police have much better things to do than get me for making my car look good.
I buy Ephedrine too and its illegal here...I just buy it from Florida, mail order Its called Lipodrene (The real version)...Great for workin out in the gym with.
flynbrian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-06, 04:18PM   #13
tweety
the blue canary
 
tweety's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: somewhere in the twilight zone
Posts: 786
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by flynbrian View Post
I will be very happy if it lasts ten years. Sounds like I picked a decent alternative to B/C based on price. After ten years If I still have the car I would want something different anyway paintwise.
I had a person tell me that it is easy to 'run' this paint and that if I am not careful that the paint will end up on the floor...I planned on doing a light tack coat then 2-3 medium wet coats all allowing them to flash off for at least 15-30 minutes. On the trunk lid inside and the door jambs I was just going to do a tack coat and 1-2 medium/ lighter coats since it wont be color sanded or abused.
I know about how to hold the gun and how to spray the roof and banding techniques but should I start at the bottom of the car and work up or from the top down? Which will produce less chance of runs especially with the cooler temps?
Brian, the way we were taught to paint over 30 years ago was to start at the bottom on one side and go front to back over the car and down the other side. Since then, I see that a lot of guys have been taught to start at one end and go to the other end. The most important thing is to keep going in one direction. If you were to say, go from one rocker and up to the middle of the roof the do the same from the other side, you get a line of dry paint where it meets in the middle. I prefer the first method that I described, it puts you working in an easy direction and you only have to change sides of the car once per coat so you're not dragging the hose around as much. The most important thing though is to keep your work in the wettest paint.

As far as running Centari goes, I always found it pretty hard to run as long as you don't over thin it. Mix your paint for your first two coats by instructions, then you can thin it out more for a third coat. When you thin it out more is when you can risk running it. But if you're fairly good at watching how it melts into the paint that's already on the car and keep moving at a good consistant speed, you should be ok. It can be a delicate touch.
__________________
Why do we never have enough time to do it right, but we always have enough time to do it over?
tweety is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-06, 05:14PM   #14
flynbrian
Registered User
 
flynbrian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Middletown Ohio
Posts: 963
Default

That makes sense. Thanks! I am looking into making a outside furnace out of some 55 gallon drums and making a heat exchanger to blow the shop air through so I can heat it without open flame. Then I have 3 steel window frames in my Concrete block garage, One of which I have blocked off with plywood to prevent theft etc. I may open that playwood up and remove the window glass...Then build a wooden frame and put a box fan with furnace filters there to pull out the fumes. In the summer I could use it to exhaust the heat a bit and draw out dust while working too. I will put the electric motor on the outside of the filters.... Moisture was said to be a problem with propane heat....What about wetting the floor? I was told to keep it soaking wet so that when you drag the hose and walk that absolutely no dust is stirred up? I was going to let the hose run on the floor slowly trickling...And I was told to unhook the cars battery and bolt a chain to the frame of the car and lay it on the floor in the water to ground everything and prevent static from attracting dirt to the paint. (told this works well in areas that could be dirty etc.)
flynbrian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-06, 07:02PM   #15
tweety
the blue canary
 
tweety's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: somewhere in the twilight zone
Posts: 786
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by flynbrian View Post
That makes sense. Thanks! I am looking into making a outside furnace out of some 55 gallon drums and making a heat exchanger to blow the shop air through so I can heat it without open flame. Then I have 3 steel window frames in my Concrete block garage, One of which I have blocked off with plywood to prevent theft etc. I may open that playwood up and remove the window glass...Then build a wooden frame and put a box fan with furnace filters there to pull out the fumes. In the summer I could use it to exhaust the heat a bit and draw out dust while working too. I will put the electric motor on the outside of the filters.... Moisture was said to be a problem with propane heat....What about wetting the floor? I was told to keep it soaking wet so that when you drag the hose and walk that absolutely no dust is stirred up? I was going to let the hose run on the floor slowly trickling...And I was told to unhook the cars battery and bolt a chain to the frame of the car and lay it on the floor in the water to ground everything and prevent static from attracting dirt to the paint. (told this works well in areas that could be dirty etc.)
I like the idea for heat. You have to be careful about using fans to vent the shop. Your motor needs to be a sealed explosionproof unit, and they are pricey. Stops you from blowing up your shop tho, lol. Wetting the floor is good, don't overdo it though as it's easy to throw the water up into the paint. It's not the same as the condensation you would get from propane heat. Remember that all the water is for is to keep the dust down and you don't need a lot of it for that. I always liked to sweep the shop thouroghly and blow it out a few times before bringing the car in to paint. Remember that you can't get it too clean.The chain from the frame to the floor is a good idea also. I still have a small cable for that I cut off a broken come a long a few years back. ( basically the same thing )
Oh yeah, I was browsing through my pics and found this one of a friends softtail I did for him back in 89. Centari black, no clearcoat, no colorsanding. It's just how it came out of the booth and was put back together.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Scan10097 (WinCE).JPG
Views:	288
Size:	10.4 KB
ID:	11592  
__________________
Why do we never have enough time to do it right, but we always have enough time to do it over?
tweety is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Single leaf? millhouse Suspension 2 10-20-11 11:17PM
Needing Pics Of How You Mounted Your Single Turbo ... Allparts36 " TURBO BUILDS " 6 05-13-11 10:15PM
Single turbo VS Twin Turbo turbo69BIRD Forced Induction 36 08-30-10 10:37PM
Who' gona build the PRO stuff pontiac mike Aftermarket News & Products 336 12-24-08 12:25PM


All times are GMT -3. The time now is 10:57AM.

Featured Ads
Ken's Speed & Machine
Mayhem Turbocharging

Carter Cryogenics.  What can we freeze for you?

Pacific Performance Racing

Central Virginia Machine Service.  Home of the Injun Engine!

All Pontiac Engine Kits

Larry's Auto Machine.  Full serivce auto, marine machine shop, domestic and foreign.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
2001 - 2007 PontiacZone.com
Page generated in 0.34745 seconds with 11 queries