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Old 10-30-06, 01:22PM   #1
flynbrian
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Default Duraglass filler? Cold weather?

I am doing some more bodywork on my Monte and the Duraglass has been kept in the house where it's warm....Yesterday I used some on my car but its like 46 degrees outside...I mixed a palm sized pile onto the mixing board and used about a 3" by 3/16-1/4" single stripe of hardener....I mixed it pretty well I thought...when I applied it to the car it all seemed normal. But it did not harden after 20 minutes like the container says...It started getting hard maybe a hour later but was gummy to try and work at all....I got pissed and went in the house for the evening.......I checked it this morning and the filler seemed hard enough to sand in most places but still little gooey where it was thin?
Its supposed to hit 70 degrees today. I am sure it maybe hard by the time I get home. It says problems can occurr from too little or too much hardener...It seemed like I used just enough...Temperature? The filler is waterproof and fiberglass reinforced...I have had this issue before with fiberglass type products....Am I just not using enough hardener? The can says to store the product at 65to 90 degrees but nothing about using it in cooler conditions. Just storage temps. If it was not advisable I am sure the can would say "USE" between 65-90 degrees instead.

You dont think I might run into any issues from a slow cure do ya? I hit some with 80 grit this morning and it seemed to be hard as can be in the thick spots...but right at the edges it still seemed gooey.
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Old 11-02-06, 06:15PM   #2
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Ahem!
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Old 11-02-06, 11:03PM   #3
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i had the same problems with evercoat z-grip i believe was the name, it was raining out all week when i did it, i had to wait a few days before it hardened, after that it was fine, but i waited an hour and sanded it and it would just tear up sandpaper.
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Old 11-03-06, 08:37PM   #4
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Heat speeds up the bondo process and cold slows it down,..
You just have to in these weather conditions wait it out and its very hard to judge that right time to start to sand it where it will not kill your sand paper...
Get the gooey stuffs out what ever you do and wait until its warmer to do it outside...
Sorry but theres not much you should do with bondo in the cold....Best to wait for that 70's weather......

You can use more hardner but its still a toss up as to when it cures..
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Old 11-05-06, 01:42AM   #5
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You also need to remember that the temp in the shop may be one thing, but the metal on you car may be a lot lower. So even if you're warming up your shop with some type of heat source, you'll need to wait a while for the metal is warm enough.

Fiberglass fillers are very temp sensetive. More so than plastic. They are very sensetive to humidity also. This is something you'll need to keep in mind when using them.
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Old 11-08-06, 03:30PM   #6
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The filler ended up curing about 2-3 days later...It was real cold that week. I ruined a few peices of paper until it finally cured.....What worked well was using a strip it disk and knocking off the top layer of crap until the white dust began flying around the room. Then it sanded very well.
I used a bit more hardener and the temperature has been much milder the last many days. I finally finshed the drivers side of the car and sprayed the Evercoat Slick sand on the car too. "Spray Bondo" as we like to call it. The whole car now has a nice thick sanding coat to get the body really straight.
(It was slick before....should be even more perfect)

I also found out even though there's not supposed to be a single difference between white and blue hardener the blue definately seems to work better.
Its not too cold to spray paint so its not too cold to do filler either.....You can spray paint down to 50-60 degree's without issue. I run my Propane torpedo for quite awhile until the car is even warm before I do too much.
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Old 11-09-06, 08:10AM   #7
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Brian how do you like the Evercoat Slick Sand I was thinking bout getting some Wonder how it compares to using a 2K urethane high build primer???

Thanks
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Old 11-09-06, 03:34PM   #8
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It builds even higher than high build primer...Just get a cheap gun to spray it though....WITH a really big tip size....2.2 would be optimal. Look up evercoats website and look up slick sand....It tells you how to shoot and what it is designed to do....Its awesome stuff and it will fill 36 grit sanding scratches and wont shrink. Its like spraying truck bed lining...IMO. Thick and leaves a heavy orange peely surface....almost "clumpy" but it ,makes guiding you during sanding fantastic. you can tell where work is needed really easy and it sands easy with 320. The Slick Sand is the ultimate sin hider....I do decent work and my rust holes get cut out and butt weld replaced with new metal. I just use the fillers to get the body straight.
If you read the "build book" for Joe Rogans Sick Fish Cuda that was done by Rad Rides they express their feelings about "bondo" They use it liberally all over their cars and they even go as far as saying they have as much as a 1/8" on all surfaces of a car at times once it is finished.....I'm not that crazy....But after reading that its alot easier to trowel it on....Buy a good two piston board sander too! Advance sells a cheapy for $100.00 that has a lifetime warranty...It will help you immensely on getting that body right.
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