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Forced Induction This section for the traditional Pontiac V8

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Old 03-22-08, 11:12PM   #1
71 GrandPrix SJ
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today i bascially taught myself to mig weld lol. i needed to raise my turbo about 5" off of the frame so that the compressor would clear the control arm. went to home depot and only thing i could find the fabricate was square tubing. basically cut and stacked the squares and welded them together. well ive never welded before. the first pieces were horrible but functional. the second side looked great! adjusted the heat to 7 (highest) and wire speed to 3.5 and i was cooking! after tackling the mount and bracket i decided to start on my Y-pipe. im only tacking everything in place and with my new found trait i figure it would be a breeze. having the heat set at 7 bascially burned right threw the pipe. lowered it to 6 and still couldnt get good welds. 5 wasnt hot enough. any tips? wire speed seemed to make the welds worse. happy median no matter the heat seemed to be having the speed around 3-4 out of a range from 1-10
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Old 03-22-08, 11:31PM   #2
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It can be tricky welding tubing thats for sure especialy when you just start out.

Set the heat and then play with the wire speed.
You can then vary your hand speed and how far you cris cross the pattern.
I use a banana shape when i weld. That way your not heating one straight line it is a very small bananashape. Its hard to explain.
You can go a little then stop as the cherry starts to die down you start oving again. you will get the hang of when to go and when to stop by watching the glow and knowing the heat from that over time.

at least thats how I do it.

you want to hear a nice egg sizzling sound with out alot of popping and spattering.
Clean your work area too thats very important.
If you grind it and its rough that can make it stick too. I like the mating surfaces smooth not jagged or roughed up.

Mig wleds never look pretty so don't sweat it to much as long as they flow and aren't bumpy and cold looking.

Its never gonna look like a TIG weld so forget that.LOL

The should be such that it glows bright red even after you stop for a bit even through the dark 10 sheild.
if not its too cold.

A tip if you are ever filling holes take some copper and smash it. back up the hole with it and weld. The weld doesn't stick to the copper and won't drop though either.

Also use a gas like stargon not fluxcore wire.
Its much easier.
Keep your tip clean too.
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old set up-3250 LBS 69 firebird T-88 turbo 455 .030 CAT H beam rods, stock crank, stock block( 2 bolt) performer intake, 850 carb 6X-6 heads 114 cc ( unported) TH 400 and 3.73 gears = 9.76 @ 141 with a 163 short time = 725 RWHP and 878 HP @ the crank

new set up - same but with home ported heads and Gen 7 DFI, my custom SS headers
Jeff Palazzo

Www.pontiaction.net
Www.mayhemturbo.com
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Old 03-23-08, 06:54AM   #3
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Weld angle helps too.
Shooting straight at the pipe will put more heat into the steel.
Angle the gun away from the joint and shoot into the steel.
The greater the angle the less heat. Practice on some scrap
pipe also be ready to make the round, as you are welding and
getting out of position. This can make your weld funk out on
you but, knowing this and a little time welding out of position
should make it easier.
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Old 03-23-08, 06:57AM   #4
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Flux core burns hotter too. Straight wire will burn cooler.
Also flux core MUST be super clean, the slag will corrode
if not clean enough.
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Old 03-23-08, 03:06PM   #5
Bruce Wilkie
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Or you can be like me and just tack things where I want then have my friend finish weld for me. (It would take me years and lots of scrap to get to his skill level). Its funny in a way, I can gas weld pretty good, solder/braze with real good results. Put a stick or mig in my hand and I go to hell.
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Old 03-23-08, 03:17PM   #6
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What kind of welder did you buy(brand,amps,duty cycle,110 or 220V)What kind of wire are you useing and are you running gas shield.
Solid core .023 with C02 shild would be the least difficult for a rookie.You need to find out how YOUR welder weld a peticular thickness of steel.When you get the settings right it will sound like bacon sizzling in grease.
When you weld thin square tube or round tubing to a thicker piece of steel use the thicker piece to "hold" the heat.Concentrate more of your bead on the thicker steel and come over and "grab" the thinner steel quickly before it burns through.
Gas shielded mig welding will look better than flux core wire welding but both are stong enough to do the job.And GMAW(gas metal arch welding) can be very pretty done right,close to TIG welding in appearance.And FCAW(flux cored arch welding) takes LESS heat to run a given dia wire than solid core wire.Why,the solid core wire is all metal,the flux core wire is not.Some of it is flux so it will take less heat(or amps) to run the same dia wire of flux core vs solid.
Basic solid core wire is fast freeze wire so if you are making a verticle pass it will run weld best if you run it downhill.
Practice,find out where your welder likes to run on differant thickness steels and mark the voltage and wire speed settings.
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Old 03-23-08, 07:31PM   #7
71 GrandPrix SJ
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i am just tacking the pipes. but i did decide to tackle the bracket myself. ill post pics when i can. y-pipe is almost done
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Old 03-23-08, 08:25PM   #8
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as you can see both weld pics are not good but you can also tell which was done first! Y-pipe and bracket pics are self explanitory. i have about four hrs into it so far and mainly because i lack the proper exhaust pipe cutting equipment. i did it all with a small hand held whizzer cutoff wheel
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Old 04-02-08, 09:55PM   #9
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I must tease you guys.. I got some exhaust work done recently.... LOL


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3.30 gears. 850 CSU carb, Tomahawk intake, stock block, factory N-crank
and ported 197 heads. 3650 Lbs with driver. Stock suspension.

9.25 best ET with 1.42 60
151 best mph
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Old 04-02-08, 10:55PM   #10
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Damn, someone dropped thier roll of dimes.
OH thats just Kristens weld.


No one likes a smart A&^
Kristen.

Just kidding

AHH HA The last one on the bottom of the picture is crooked.
See you are human
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old set up-3250 LBS 69 firebird T-88 turbo 455 .030 CAT H beam rods, stock crank, stock block( 2 bolt) performer intake, 850 carb 6X-6 heads 114 cc ( unported) TH 400 and 3.73 gears = 9.76 @ 141 with a 163 short time = 725 RWHP and 878 HP @ the crank

new set up - same but with home ported heads and Gen 7 DFI, my custom SS headers
Jeff Palazzo

Www.pontiaction.net
Www.mayhemturbo.com
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Old 04-03-08, 05:59AM   #11
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If I can think of it I will bring a piece from work to show you guys..........looks even bette than the one 69GTO posted.
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Old 04-03-08, 10:17PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo69BIRD View Post
AHH HA The last one on the bottom of the picture is crooked.
See you are human
Yup, that's right!! LOL

The guys that get the welds perfect all around the pipes, they are the ones that don't do anything else all day long....
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69 GTO street car. 464 Pontiac, 88 singleturbo, 210XHD Rossler trans,
3.30 gears. 850 CSU carb, Tomahawk intake, stock block, factory N-crank
and ported 197 heads. 3650 Lbs with driver. Stock suspension.

9.25 best ET with 1.42 60
151 best mph
& 5.95/119 in the 1/8th
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Old 04-04-08, 01:20AM   #13
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I think you have a challenger out there kristen.

Colin thinks he's brought something for ya!

I think we have a weld off brewing here boys!
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old set up-3250 LBS 69 firebird T-88 turbo 455 .030 CAT H beam rods, stock crank, stock block( 2 bolt) performer intake, 850 carb 6X-6 heads 114 cc ( unported) TH 400 and 3.73 gears = 9.76 @ 141 with a 163 short time = 725 RWHP and 878 HP @ the crank

new set up - same but with home ported heads and Gen 7 DFI, my custom SS headers
Jeff Palazzo

Www.pontiaction.net
Www.mayhemturbo.com
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