OK I know I'm gonna get some flack on this one but here goes.
1- 1/2" drive 15/16 impact socket (deep)
1 good quaulity breaker bar long enough to brace against the frame or some 4x4s to oppose the direction of engine rotation.
If the socket wants to fall off the bolt , support the end of the socket with a
Refrain from using drive extentions .You want all the breakaway torque to be tranmitted to the bolt and the bar.Extensions twist and absorb some torque.
Disconnect the primary (+) wire to the coil.
Get your tools in position. Bump the starter.
The bolt will break free and you can wind it the rest of the way out by hand.
Now I've done this at wrecking yards, out on the road and in the shop too when there was no air and no extra set of hands or any tool to hold anything at the flywheel.
Desperate times call for desperate measures.
Word of caution here:
DO NOT HOLD ONTO THE BAR ! BRACE IT OFF SAFELY AND STAND CLEAR.
In rare cases the head of the bolt could shear off but if the bolt is that weak already or is rusted or some Cretin put it in with Loctite the impact wrench or BFH would probably do the same thing.
Other horror story is the posiibility of twisting the crank,breaking the crank,
breaking the snout off the crank.
Heard of it happening, been told it can happen, never seen it happen.
If you are not sure before starting good insurance would be to heat the head of the bolt with an oxy acetylene torch too about 500 degrees ( that's plenty any hotter and there may be other problems) and let it set for a few minutes then try and break the bolt loose
That would hopefully break the bond of any possible corrosion and cause a thread locker to soften enough to allow the bolt to break free.
If you do not trust re using the old bolt get a new one.
I would not take a chain / toothed type tong wrench to the inertia ring on a dampner.It would work but the elastomer bond between the hub and the ring may not like it either depending on how hard you have to twist against it.
If it is an old dampner it may already be slipping anyway.
I've seen some guys assemble the dampner on the crank snout with Loctite.
I guess they have reasons?
If you are not aware of this when trying to remove a dampner it will give you fits.
So if you are having to use excessive force to get the puller to work that may be the case or it is just a very tight interference fit that may require some warming to get it to slide off.If you force it the lead screw to the puller may strip or the dampner may gall itself to the snout on the way out.
The dampner hub may have to be heated to break the bond of the thread locker / sleeve retainer glue that was used.
You just do not want to get the hub so hot that it screws up the elastomer bond or the front main seal either. Damp rags tied around the ring may help to heat sink it.
If it is a junk dampner to start with your going to pitch it once it is off ,so all is fair. If in doubt replace the front main seal too.
No warranty ,gauranty is expressed or implied.
Use this at your own peril.