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Old 04-20-14, 11:34AM   #61
Mb125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSPONT View Post
I use a cheap harbor freight hvlp gun for primer.
I painted my whole car with that gun. Except for spraying slick sand, used a 2.5mm tip gun for that.
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Old 04-20-14, 06:38PM   #62
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Well, I got some Metal 2 Metal body filler laid down on the dash. Man this stuff sets up fast! Took three batch's to get it around the lower windshield area and upper windshield are. The first batch set up when I only got half it laid down. I learned to work faster.







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Old 04-20-14, 06:42PM   #63
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Started sanding excess off when My buddy showed up to pull the back glass out.



Nice Surprise under the back glass. No rust!



Just a lot of dirt and crud!



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Old 04-20-14, 06:44PM   #64
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Some Dillwad hacked the crap out of the rear package tray. Guess I now have an excuse to install a couple 6x9's and some small sub woofers!

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Old 04-20-14, 06:47PM   #65
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Got my tie rods, and centerlink epoxy primed and painted semi-gloss black.



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Old 04-26-14, 07:01PM   #66
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Well, I finished sanding the dash and windshield perimeter area. Have to apply more body filler. This time I'm using Rage Ultra since I need to fill just fine stuff. I'm kind of pissed though as the can came with a plastic ring around the lid. Couldn't pull it off. Looking closely at the plastic ring, I saw a diagram showing a hand using tin snips to cut it off. Didn't look like I could get my tin snips in there so I used dikes instead. Well, on one of the cuts, I saw metal come out on the tip of the dikes. Sure enough, when I got the stupid plastic ring off, the lid had a hole cut in the sealing ring. Had to solder it up.

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Old 04-26-14, 07:12PM   #67
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The second thing to piss me off is the damn digital scale I used to measure out the body filler and the hardener. I set my mixing dish on the scale and zeroed it out. Then, I put 10 grams of filler on the plate, and zeroed it out. Instructions said to use 2% hardener to filler ratio. So I place a small drop of hardener on the filler and as I go to look at the scale[had to look under the mixing dish], it shuts off!.

So now I have to relay on my supreme memory for numbers! I remembered the mixing dish weighed 35.0-35.1 grams[kept flicking between the two]. Then I added 10-10.1 grams of body filler. That weighs as much as 45.2 grams. The dish now weighs 45.4 grams, so I think I'm good[actually, I know I'm good, but that's another story!]. Waiting now for it to setup and hopefully get hard.
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Old 04-26-14, 07:13PM   #68
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Old 04-26-14, 11:18PM   #69
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Fun stuff Paul. Little steps, little steps. It'll be so nice when it's done.

Mark
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Old 06-19-14, 01:46AM   #70
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Boy, it's been a while since I updated this. Been very busy, both on the GTO and with personal life. Since my last update, I started stripping the paint off the drivers door. Then I got sick, or what I thought was sick, for a couple weeks. Turns out, I wasn't sick at all, just the wind was blowing all kinds of dust and dirt around and that made me feel sick. Probably allergies or something. At any rate, the following weekend the wife and I spent the weekend out of town for my birthday. So for three weeks, I was unable to work on it. After that, I got back to it, but then the next weekend I found myself fixing the wife's Bronco, my Sons Bonneville, my S-10, my daily driver, and pulled the head off my daughters Toyota. Worked on every car at my house that weekend, except my GTO, the one car I really wanted to work on.

So, here is my update. Started stripping the paint off the door. First, I tried sanding it off. That just gave me very sore arms for a week. Then I tried some nasty paint stripper. That removed the paint, but wouldn't touch the red oxide primer.









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Old 06-19-14, 01:49AM   #71
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So I get the paint off, but the red primer would just get greasy like from the paint stripper. So I resorted back to sanding it off. More sore arms. Unfortunately, that still wasn't working. What in the heck is this stuff made of, granite dust? It ain't sanding off, it ain't coming off with chemicals that will strip the clothes off your mother-in-law, it ain't budging!









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Carter Cryogenics
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Old 06-19-14, 01:53AM   #72
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So I remember this stuff I bought at Home Depot years ago that was a adhesive remover. That stuff removed anything sticky and worked great. It was called Citri-Strip. So I go to Home Depot and they had Citri-Strip citrus paint and varnish remover. Non-toxic, and Bio-degradable! Yeah, this oughta work good! Yeah right! Since the adhesive remover worked so good, I thought I would give this stuff a try. I put it on with a paint brush. It smelled like oranges!





I also put some on the paint that I hadn't removed yet to see how it worked on just paint also. After 10-15 minutes, the paint had had enough to the point it was just jumping off the car. Curls of paint with dried up orange stuff on it was piling up all over the ground, like ants on a dead bug. Unfortunately, the red primer was not getting excited about going anywhere. No curling, no jumping off the edge, no nothin'! So, just for the heck of it, I got out the paint scraper and tried scraping it. Much to my surprise, the red primer scraped right off in sheets! This orange stuff is DA BOMB!. So I finished sanding it the rest of the way to bare metal.





I found no Bondo, and no rust! Just a couple minor dents to straighten out, and ready for primer. Oh, yeah, a couple holes to weld up also.

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Old 06-19-14, 01:54AM   #73
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Paul Carter
Carter Cryogenics
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Koerner Racing Engines
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I was wrong once. That was when I THOUGHT I made a mistake!
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Old 06-19-14, 09:36AM   #74
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Default Metal Prep

Before you prime that door make sure you use a good metal prep. I use some purple/blue stuff from ppg. It will neutralize any pitted rust, even taht you can not see. Let me know if you know what I am talking about, if you dont I'll hit the garage and get you the # of the ppg stuff. Cant remember what it is called off hand. Good job, stripping a car sucks!!
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Old 06-19-14, 11:09AM   #75
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I've used some stuff called Metal Prep in the past. Is the PPG stuff basically the same thing?

When I did the dash, I used Metal Ready from POR15. It lays down some sort of zinc phosphate coating. It's supposed to help the POR15 stick. I have a bunch of this left, will it work for regular primer?
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