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Proven Engine Combinations Engine combinations, and the resultant HP and/or E.T.s

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Old 03-08-12, 01:03AM   #1
frbformula
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Default cam, header and intake selection

i finally bought a set of edel 72cc round ports. now im deciding on cam header and intake. what are u guys running? This is in a full weight 73 bird race car

engine
463 stroker
flat tops
CNC proted edel heads. 310-330 cfm
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Old 03-08-12, 08:36PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frbformula View Post
i finally bought a set of edel 72cc round ports. now im deciding on cam header and intake. what are u guys running? This is in a full weight 73 bird race car

engine
463 stroker
flat tops
CNC proted edel heads. 310-330 cfm
85CC ported e's, port matched victor, dougs 1 7/8 ceramic headers. (no nitrous. never had it, never will.)
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Old 03-09-12, 01:14AM   #3
PontiacKid73
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400 block bored .030 over
455 crank
final 455 cid
forged rods and pistons
edelbrock heads ported 320cfm-ish guessing
comp hyd roller cam
dur @ .050 251 in 259 ex
110 lsa
1.65 roller rockers
torker II intake ported
3/4 in spacer (N2O) plate
demon 850 double pumper
mallory unilite dist.
taylor wires
mech water pump and fan
2in hooker super comp headders
magnaflow 3 in x-pipe system

car is 4000lbs
got me to 11.28 @117 ( good day )
usually 11.4 low all day
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1/4 11.28 @ 117mph
455 ci
4000 lbs

If its got Tits or Tires its going to be a problem
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Old 03-09-12, 01:18AM   #4
PontiacKid73
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I may be looking to go with a more aggressive cam myself. Some were saying on here that i'm not getting all that i can out of this combo, but ask 10 people get 10 different answers.
BTW the setup im running fits under the hood if you are looking to keep stock appearing.

Are you strictly a race car or street as well?
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1/4 11.28 @ 117mph
455 ci
4000 lbs

If its got Tits or Tires its going to be a problem
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Old 03-09-12, 03:21PM   #5
frbformula
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I have givin up on trying to keep everything under the stock hood. Even if i can make it fit the lack of hood clearance restricts air flow to much.

Its not strictly a race car it does see some street use but my take on the matter is if it doesnt stall when stopped at a red light or over heat then it can be street drivin.


My current cam specs are
Solid Flat Tappet
.555 lift
306 duration
260 @.50
110 lsa

This cam will take the car up to 6600rpm no problem with the iron heads that are on it but i believe it is not enough cam for the new heads



PontiacKid
In one of your other posts you say that your engine quits around 6000rpm. Just a thought but maybe with the lack of hood clearance it is choking out the engine.
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Old 03-09-12, 11:50PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frbformula View Post
I have givin up on trying to keep everything under the stock hood. Even if i can make it fit the lack of hood clearance restricts air flow to much.

Its not strictly a race car it does see some street use but my take on the matter is if it doesnt stall when stopped at a red light or over heat then it can be street drivin.


My current cam specs are
Solid Flat Tappet
.555 lift
306 duration
260 @.50
110 lsa

This cam will take the car up to 6600rpm no problem with the iron heads that are on it but i believe it is not enough cam for the new heads



PontiacKid
In one of your other posts you say that your engine quits around 6000rpm. Just a thought but maybe with the lack of hood clearance it is choking out the engine.
what ratio rockers do you have now?: also converter stall? rear gear? carb size? solid roller or hyd roller? intake? What is in your bottom end? ect?
Also id say go with a north wind or victor since you have no height restrictions. With that top end you can swing more duration as well as more lift if you have enough carb to feed it. with that top end a 1050 dom. will be recommended by most.

And yes i assume that the hood line suffocation is my problem. I am planning on making my own formula style hood that will give an extra 2 inches or so out of fiber glass this summer if i can find the time. that or at least run the car with the hood off lol
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1/4 11.28 @ 117mph
455 ci
4000 lbs

If its got Tits or Tires its going to be a problem
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Old 03-10-12, 03:16AM   #7
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my current rockers are 1.5 roller rockers that i am going to continue to use. 3500 stall convertor. carb is a 750 dp but i plan on a 950 or 1050 dom. the cam is going to be the current one i have for this season,its a comp 306s cam. bottom end eagle crank, eagle forged h-beam rods, keith black forged flat tops full floaters. everything is held together by arp studs.
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Old 03-10-12, 03:54AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frbformula View Post
my current rockers are 1.5 roller rockers that i am going to continue to use. 3500 stall convertor. carb is a 750 dp but i plan on a 950 or 1050 dom. the cam is going to be the current one i have for this season,its a comp 306s cam. bottom end eagle crank, eagle forged h-beam rods, keith black forged flat tops full floaters. everything is held together by arp studs.
Do you have your cowl hood yet or are you just slicing a hole in the hood?
victor is about a inch taller than the northwind but makes a bit more HP. If you have no limit to the hood go with the victor, port match it, and a dominator. your setup can make use of it. Then next year you can do a cam swap and valvetrain update to make even better use of the combo. also if you can find a used set of 1.65 roller rockers that would also help get some more lift out of the cam, go from .555 to .61. All depends on cash flow i suppose.
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1/4 11.28 @ 117mph
455 ci
4000 lbs

If its got Tits or Tires its going to be a problem
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Old 03-10-12, 12:33PM   #9
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the hood i have right now is a steel hood with a pro scoop on it so i have all the hood room i need to run what ever i want.

how big of a roller cam do u need before u need a lifter boar brace? and do i need to remove the engine to put one in? that is one thing that is keeping me from running a roller this year, i dont want to pull the engine
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Old 03-10-12, 04:17PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frbformula View Post
the hood i have right now is a steel hood with a pro scoop on it so i have all the hood room i need to run what ever i want.

how big of a roller cam do u need before u need a lifter boar brace? and do i need to remove the engine to put one in? that is one thing that is keeping me from running a roller this year, i dont want to pull the engine
you can put in a roller cam without pulling the motor. I did a cam swap on mine with it in the car. You just have to remove the radiator and i don't recall if I had to remove that middle support that is behind the front bumper but i did the swap fairly quickly.

I think the brace is related to the lobe lift of the cam and the ramp rate. Butler has a page of solid roller lobes that are good to use without the brace http://www.jbp-pontiac.com/products/camshafts.html
Im sure you could call them and give them your specs and they will grind you a cam.
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1/4 11.28 @ 117mph
455 ci
4000 lbs

If its got Tits or Tires its going to be a problem
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Old 03-10-12, 07:00PM   #11
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ok thanks for the link. i know i dont have to pull the engine to swap cams what i was asking was if anybody knows if you can install a lifter bore brace with the engine still in the car
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Old 03-22-12, 02:04AM   #12
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There is a big difference between a 310 head and a 330 head. 330 is getting close to the limit of std pushrod E heads.
310 is not much more than a good sand roll job.
What are they.
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Old 03-22-12, 11:10PM   #13
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i dont have an official number yet. They are being cnc'd by a local shop Livernois Motor Sports. I am going to have them flowed when after the valves are all cut. here are some pictures of the heads so far.Click image for larger version

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Old 05-03-12, 06:21PM   #14
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Ok so i have the official flow numbers of my heads and I am very impressed. (all numbers are at 28.00" of water

Intake
.100 73
.200 149.1
.300 226.2
.400 279.2
.500 324.2
.550 337.5
.600 347
.650 346.5
.700 346.5

Exhaust
.100 54.5
.200 100
.300 145.5
.400 178.7
.500 238.5
.550 247
.600 254
.650 264
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Old 06-02-12, 11:16AM   #15
LMS-RACER
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Talking Questions...

Quote:
Originally Posted by frbformula View Post
Ok so i have the official flow numbers of my heads and I am very impressed. (all numbers are at 28.00" of water

Intake
.100 73
.200 149.1
.300 226.2
.400 279.2
.500 324.2
.550 337.5
.600 347
.650 346.5
.700 346.5

Exhaust
.100 54.5
.200 100
.300 145.5
.400 178.7
.500 238.5
.550 247
.600 254
.650 264
frbformula,
If you don't mind me asking...
What size valves were used and on what size bore fixture were the heads flowed?
What was used on the intake side? A radiused flow adapter or clay?
What was used on the exhaust side? A 2" diameter by 2" long flow pipe or something similar? Maybe there was no flow pipe at all?

I'm only asking because those are really good numbers with stock location push rods... I noticed that the heads are fully CNC'd.. Good luck with the build...

Larry S.

http://www.precisionautomotivespecialists.com
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