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Old 07-20-08, 06:00PM   #1
vicgto
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Default 3/4 Factory Windage Tray, is it worth the trouble?

I have a 1974 455 block. I picked up a factory windage tray but am not sure if it is worth running. I have read they sometimes crack and cause other problems. I would also have to tap the bosses on the main caps to allow me to secure the tray to the caps. Is it better to secure it to the main studs? Also, I have a factory oil pan (1977) without a baffle. I am a little concerned about using this. Anyone using a pan without a baffle and has it caused any problems?

Thanks
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Old 07-20-08, 10:20PM   #2
464GP69
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if i were you id go with a canton pan and tray, all that said if you insist on stock stuff i highly recomend using a baffled pan and getting a crank scraper.
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Old 07-20-08, 10:32PM   #3
arutnev
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i broke two factory trays i will never use a stock tray again. i also agree on a scaper and a baffled pan.
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Old 07-21-08, 03:08AM   #4
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There's a lot of Fords and Chevy's without a windage tray. We Pontiac guys start thinking they're necessary because we were lucky to get them, but overall it's fine to run without if it's going to be too much trouble.
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Old 07-21-08, 10:40PM   #5
Ron Genovese
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If your going racing, ditch the factory tray! It will crack or worse yet break off completly. Just speaking from experience.
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Old 07-22-08, 01:22AM   #6
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Don't waste your time. Just run a baffled pan. That's all that's needed.
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Old 07-22-08, 11:40PM   #7
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Any votes for the windage tray? It cost the General alot of money so they must have had a reason. Did engines with a windage tray use a baffled oil pan from the factory?
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Old 07-23-08, 02:32AM   #8
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3/4 tray is suppose to be heavier,never mic'ed one. They worked for Gm because they were used in stock or in a somewhat higher hp application.

Jim Taylor used to use a cushion between the tray and cap, i think rubber mount,for an isolater. Like everyone say's, i have seen the trays break as well.

Pontiac didn't use the tray and baffled pan together,they did away with the tray 74? and used the baffled pans in 76 up.

The baffled pan does work with the 3/4 tray,i have one on my 455, so far no problems. however i do like the scraper.
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Old 08-01-08, 03:45AM   #9
screamingchief
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danzig
3/4 tray is suppose to be heavier,never mic'ed one.
The 455 trays are thicker,you can tell these easily as they are stamped with a "5" on them.

The other trays (both 4/5's and full) are indeed thinner.

FYI I've mic'ed the OE trays,here's the list:
(the aftermarket trays are listed using their advertised specs)
OE/standard trays ~ .035" thick (20 ga. appx.)
OE/455 "5" trays ~ .047" thick (18 ga. appx.)
Aftermarket trays (spotts,PPR) ~ .053" thick (17 ga. appx.)

HTH.
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Old 08-01-08, 03:54AM   #10
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Oh yeah,if you do use the OE trays,it is a wise idea to remove the scrapper portion and modify a bolt on dipstick tube as that portion of the tray is the portion that fails first in most cases,and that failure usually ends up taking out the rest of the tray.

I'll include a pic of a modified tray,and a couple of damaged trays,just as food for thought.

HTH.
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Old 08-01-08, 02:13PM   #11
danzig
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SC, have you had any problems with the factory 3/4 tray, since you took off the scraper? also, if the modification works, i would run a pan rail mounted scraper, on my own engine. What do you think?
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Old 08-02-08, 05:30AM   #12
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I've never had a problem with or without the scraper portion,so to me it is just a matter of preventitive planning,ie: learning from what some others have shown is the primary weak area of those trays.

As for the pan rail based scrapers,I'm not a huge fan of them.

Especially on daily/street driven cars with flat tappet cams,those rely on a certain amount of splash in the reciprocating assembly for good long lifespans,and scrapers by design pretty much operate contrary to that situation.

If your building an uber-high RPM combo with roller cams,well then that sorta hardware maybe gets reconsidered in a new light.

But mostly I feel scrapers are highly over-rated pieces of equipment.

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