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Old 04-25-10, 11:50PM   #1
casmech
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Default 400 block 455 internals t88h turbo

was wondering how much power will the stock internals handle
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Old 04-26-10, 12:43AM   #2
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Default Testing

Testing 123
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Old 04-26-10, 01:05AM   #3
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Hmmm......the TA I just bought from Mark was dynoed at 886 hp at the rear wheels.....so far so good. 455 with a 77mm turbo. I'm guessing the more abuse you expose it to, the more chance to break it. But quite a few here are putting stock blocks into the 1000+ hp range. Block and rotating assembly prep probably play the biggest part in whether these engines live for long if I had to guess.

But in many of those there are items that are not stock, such as upgraded pistons and rods at the very least.
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Old 04-26-10, 02:37AM   #4
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Need more information.

Stock rods? Stock pistons? Stock 455 crank? 2-bolt? etc etc
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Old 04-26-10, 03:10PM   #5
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sorry its a 72 2 bolt block arp head studs main studs 4x heads speed pro forged
pistons stock rod cast crank. building a 4 bolt later in the summer. but i was just seeing what i could put to this one
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Old 04-26-10, 09:37PM   #6
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depends on how its built
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Old 04-26-10, 09:47PM   #7
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are we talking standard bore, factory machine work, No upgraded bolts anywhere and stock gasket set?
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Old 04-26-10, 10:01PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casmech View Post
sorry its a 72 2 bolt block arp head studs main studs 4x heads speed pro forged
pistons stock rod cast crank. building a 4 bolt later in the summer. but i was just seeing what i could put to this one
Ok I see now, The major limiting factor here will be the rods i wouldnt push it past 500 ponies with those.

if you stepped up to a set of CAT or eagle rods Id go 800or more and if the machine work was really good Id say 1000 HP all this is assuming you can tune and you can keep the RPM under 6000 most of the time,
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Old 04-27-10, 01:03AM   #9
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A lot of guys are AVOIDING the 4 bolt main blocks in favor of using the 2 bolt main blocks with splayed caps (if I'm correct here?) So you might want to ask some questions about that scenario before investing the money in the 4 bolt block.

Just a thought.......and if you dont have to invest in a 2nd and later build, maybe that means you can use the money you've earmarked for it to build this one better.
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Old 04-27-10, 02:37AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casmech View Post
sorry its a 72 2 bolt block arp head studs main studs 4x heads speed pro forged
pistons stock rod cast crank. building a 4 bolt later in the summer. but i was just seeing what i could put to this one
I think your good to about 500, change out the rods and you could go 700+
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Old 04-28-10, 01:18PM   #11
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here's some pictures of the build
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Old 04-28-10, 02:34PM   #12
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if i do all forged internals in the four bolt that i have now with good heads what can i push out of it roughly i love the splayed main caps idea alot just out of learning these pontiacs more.
now im scared to even start the two bolt with factory rods after just putting it all together and installed. all in waiting on is fuel, and spark. finish the intake pipe.
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Old 04-28-10, 03:07PM   #13
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Nice looking build. Big front mount, should cool nicely. Should run out rather well. Watch the rpm more than anything. Keep it around 5500 with the cast rods. They take a lot of compression stress but the elongation stress from high rpm will work at any stress risers ( cracks, nicks, machining scratches etc) and once a cast rod goes it pops like glass. No warning or sympathy for you. Likely take the block and crank too. Mark L
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Old 04-28-10, 06:24PM   #14
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with a cast crank prepped properly, forged rods and forged pistons, Tuned properly with good head studs and main studs you should be good for 1000HP assuming you dont spin it high. I shift mine at 5800 and trap at 6600

any race type engine is a time bomb to some extent though, you never truely know how long its gonna last.
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Old 04-28-10, 06:32PM   #15
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Its probably more about an excellent balancing job, good pistons (especially if you get ones designed for boost), good rods (I like the aluminum BMR that Mark chose for the TA I just bought from him), and if you can afford to add it in getting the block decked. Even with a stock nodular (the early ones) crank pushing 1000+ hp should be attainable. Some have gotten a lot more.

If you want to add a few $ to the build then things like cryo treatments sound like they have a lot of potential as a safety margin.

One last thing.....these things make a ton of hp & torque.....not saying they wont live at higher rpms, but I dont plan to exceed 5800 rpm on mine, and from what I've seen you can have a monster of a car and never go above that. With lower rpms these engines can live a very long time. Take them up way higher and and it becomes a crapshoot.......some well prepped examples live a long time, and some dont.
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