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Old 08-31-13, 06:30PM   #1
sprint250
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Default Trans cooler plumbing schemes

Some ways to go about it.

I'm running dual force draft coolers in parallel .
Each cooler has it's own controller.
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Old 08-31-13, 09:01PM   #2
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Which Diagram are you going to run, first or second.
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Old 09-01-13, 12:58AM   #3
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1st diagram coolers in parallel & bypassing the radiator cooler all together is what I am changing to this weekend. Still hot as hell all labor day weekend.

My original set up was the typical external cooler in series with the radiator but in traffic,even with a separate fan blowing on it temps would push past 200,
just was not enough cooling for my liking.
I already wrecked one trans last year because of heat related issues.
Gauge sender is in the pan .
I added a second cooler in series with the first ,like the second diagram , and over the last 2 days(extremely hot & humid this week 55% @ 100 degrees) in slow bumper to bumper traffic the temps kept just below 200.

But I know it can still do better than that using the parallel setup & by passing the radiator cooler.
I ordered the wye fittings Friday morning from Los Angeles and they were delivered to me same day by 3:30 pm in San Diego.
That's service!

I am using two of "The Dawg" #526 Rapid Cool plate & fin remote coolers by Hayden (one I actually made myself out of parts I had on hand).
They are compact enough to mount in the front grill area of a '70 Firebird.
The Hayden 3647 Fan Control is rated /wired for two fans #1 lead comes with a fuse.
You have to add a fuse for the #2 lead if used.
The temp sensor lead is two short so I had to extend it so I could mount the controller on the fender well.
An alternative controller is the DERALE # 16759.
DERALE comes with a 6' or longer lead on the probe and there is a rubber plug on the controller over the hole on the adjustment pot to keep crud out of it.The harness plugs into the controller.
On the Hayden controller the leads are "potted" into the controller ( no plug)
Both controllers use plug in relays.

i'LL LET YOU KNOW WHAT THE RESULTS ARE.
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Old 09-17-13, 03:37AM   #4
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Default Final Results

Coolers are in parallel now and the operating temps are staying down in the 180's in traffic in hot weather and lower yet on the higway at speed .
Cooler outside air temps & the trans temp hovers between 165 & 180.

I could install an on/off switch to the relay control power to both fans if in winter driving (mild here) the trans needs more heat.

If you have trouble getting the fittings through McMaster Carr Supply
Here are the two companies that make/sell the stanless steel hose barb wye fittings.
COLE - PARMER
http://www.coleparmer.com/

ELDON - JAMES
http://tubingandfittings.eldonjames....ngs?&pagenum=4

The SS wyes are not available in an increaser/reducer pattern where the two branches combine to a larger single diameter.
That would be good for running increased line sizes in & out of the trans up to the split for the coolers.
A straight increaser/reducer fitting would have to be added in the run but the 3/8"x1/2" reducer is not available in stainless either (every other size is though LOL).
Edelman may make it in brass. Either that or some type of compression x barb or barb x thread adapters may be available to get to the increase.
Do not use plastic fittings . The heat & oil will kill them.

Remember that the branches from the wyes to the coolers have to be equal in length for obtaining balanced flow ( as close as you can get to it) through the coolers.
Bends in the hoses must have a radius not less than 3".
Anything less than that will cause flow restrictions ,possibility of kinks and place stress on the cooler inlet & outlet nipples.
Feed the coolers in upflow configuration : Hot- in at the bottom /Cool- out at the top.
This will help to prevent any gases/air from getting trapped in the coolers.
Up & out back to the trans (HVAC VAV re-heating coils are plumbed the same way).
In the pics you can see where I chose to eliminate the pass through hole on the core support center brace. It was ok for the series hookup but was causing too tight of a bend in the supply/inlet hose branch to #2 cooler.
I put some edge protector on the brace to protect the hose.
1/2" foam pipe insulation works well on the hose lines to protect them where they pass through tight areas with sharp edges or where there is the possibility of a hose chafing/abrading. Just cover the hose in those areas where it needs to be protected. You want as much surface area of the hose exposed to free air as possible so it too can radiate off heat.

This was the way to go for my setup.
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Last edited by sprint250 : 09-17-13 at 04:09AM.
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Old 09-18-13, 02:40AM   #5
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I like it, pretty detail, sounds like it works real good too. Thanks for sharing
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Old 09-19-13, 02:20AM   #6
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Thanks.
I'm very pleased with how it works now.
Now I need to go to work on the 60' times and my reaction times!

Every freeway on ramp signal becomes a practice pro tree now. LOL
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Old 09-19-13, 01:50PM   #7
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Loosten up that front end
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Old 09-20-13, 03:47AM   #8
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Yeah gotta do that and move some weight around.
Disconnect the front stabilizer bar links 0r loosen them up the races should be OK ?.
Don't wanna do the 90/10 drag shock deal just yet , road car mostly.

Lost an end link ( bad original fastener) on the highway last week & tried driving with a link on one side .When going over bumps at freeway speed the front wants to gyrate.LOL not the best feeling.I parked it & bought all new Energy Suspension end links.
I have lighter narrower Weld Draglites for the front but I gotta get the bias ply skinnies for them.
The radials in front with the ET Streets in back is not the best combo. It tends to want to wander around on the top end. Not bad but it gets your attention.
Dmac told me with the bias ply tires in front it will go straight as a string.
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Old 09-20-13, 01:54PM   #9
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Do the secret control arm bushing tricks up front and get adjustable shocks that you can adjust without taking them out.
If you lube up the sway bar bushings on the frame so their is good unrestricted movement for the sway bar you can leave that in to do its thing.
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Old 09-21-13, 03:35AM   #10
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10-4
Got a few things to do. LOL
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