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Old 12-18-17, 11:49AM   #46
Mb125
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Better off getting a cam from here.
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Old 12-18-17, 12:12PM   #47
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Paul Carter is great guy to work with.

Another good source is Bullet Racing Cams. Ask for Tim, he used to work with Harold at UltraDyne and is Pontiac savvy. Before Bullet went out of business Jim Butler was one of his largest customers. After than Jim started buying from Comp. Bullet sells UltraDyne lobes as well as their own.

http://bulletcams.com/

.
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Old 12-18-17, 07:21PM   #48
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Steve, its like most of the fella,s here think i make this stuff up or something??I know what was told to me, i prove the cam no. is for a pontiac & still get hammered, Warrior i thought was out of business???Butler today told me on a flat tappet cam 135 to 140 seat pressure is alot, better run alot of zinc additives.They make all the evants,sell a ton of motor parts and i am sure they know what there talking about.If the valves float with this cam simply step up to a stiffer spring if needed. The cam may go back,Just give me a little credit to try and find a cam that works for my combo.
In conclusion ,I am being told time and time again i make poor decisions but i am the only one out there running down a 1320 quarter mile week after week and motor runs just fine, with poor decisions. When all else fails the name calling and bad mouth reviews surface.
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Old 12-18-17, 07:42PM   #49
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Rich what is your budget? I know of an e headed motor (400) bad thing it is a 557 block , only dyno time, made 580 hp I am told, intake to pan $3500.00.
That should be way more than you need. Forged eagle rotating 4.250 stroke 461 c.i.
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Old 12-18-17, 07:51PM   #50
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I am having to much fun with my 400 motor,Thanks but no thanks, out to prove a point!!
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Old 12-18-17, 08:09PM   #51
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Guys Let him do what he thinks is right. We/he will no this time next year. This happens all the time he posts something and we turn it into a 70 plus posts. Let him do what he thinks right. His car his money.
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Old 12-18-17, 09:16PM   #52
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I'm not suggesting it's the 'wrong' cam. Just his low spring pressure and the associated RPMs involved with a 3.750 stroke and a 250 degree cam. Been there.
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Old 12-18-17, 09:53PM   #53
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Well Steve the comp 995 spring have a seat pressure of 115 at 1.7 install height and we no they lose a couple pounds after run time. ( so comp looking for 110-120). BUT RICH have your springs check at a shop. Remember your problem at the end of the season. Breaking/missing at 5200 rpm. Degree,check springs,adjust your lifter correctly Good Luck
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Old 12-18-17, 10:05PM   #54
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steve, i am by no means a expert on the subject, but i have been on the net for hrs. and a good close pressure for a flat tappet cam right from Lunati, Crane,and yes comp cams is 105 to 120. Its written by them not me, i did not find these figure,s in the sky floating around, in the atmosphere.I am at 105.to 110. Bad mouth me if you fella,s wish but thats right from horses mouth.I can only believe what i read not here-say. Thank you all for your input and i hope it does also not go to 100.
Tom, with all do respect, i found the problem remember, rev. limiter problems.Nothing to do with springs, valves, ect. Thank You
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Old 12-18-17, 10:26PM   #55
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Rev limiter I call BS on that Rich. But I’m not going back to find that lie. Wait I remember it was your SUN super tach. A local racer told me to disconnect it and all was fixed. Haha This was the reason you paid $150 plus for your proform spring pressure tool.

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Old 12-18-17, 10:53PM   #56
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Put one of those late 1970's factory cast iron boat anchor intakes on. You be really fast then.
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Old 12-18-17, 10:54PM   #57
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Guys donít waste your time. He did his research and heís convinced 105-110 going to be fine. He just donít get it and never will.
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Old 12-18-17, 10:57PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mb125 View Post
Put one of those late 1970's factory cast iron boat anchor intakes on. You be really fast then.
God donít tell him that heíll do it, is funny tho
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Old 12-18-17, 11:08PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragncar View Post
Your rods are stock, can polish a turd, its still a turd. And a cast one.
If you have factory 2 piece welded valves like I have heard, get them out now. short, 2 piece valves are flirting with disaster my friend. And cast rods to boot.
Get some cheap 6.625 H beams, re balance, re valve, re cam and you will have a real engine.
I have seen those polished ect cast rods come out the pan so hard they dent the frame in a 67 GTO. You want to be next ?

BTW, short valves mean you at best will be SQUISHING those springs, no matter how good they are to near max every cycle. Not good.
He changed to these high flow a while back.
Don't know on the springs though.
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Old 12-18-17, 11:22PM   #60
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Your getting funner by the minute. Thatís Hilarious
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