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Old 12-04-18, 01:36AM   #1
JHanko
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Default Need advice on converter stall choice

I need to make a decision on this soon. Car is a 68 Firebird hard top. Car will mostly be street driven with occasional trips to the track. Currently building an IA-II 535. Transmission is a 200-4R. Rear end is a 12 bolt with 3.55 Eaton posi. Looking for the highest stall I can get, while still having good manners on the street. I would like to cruise on the highway at 1800 rpm and be able to lift a wheel off the ground with slicks and a good hookup. Does such a converter exist? I really need some advice here. Thanks!
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Old 12-04-18, 10:15AM   #2
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Good luck with a 2004r. They can be built but they seem not to last. If you want OD I would suggest 4l80, it's a th400 w/ od.
Not sure what your budget is, but there are a number of converter guys that would custom build converters for your needs. If you have a bunch of info on the car,( weight, h.p., torque, gears, tranny ....) they get you close.
I have a bolt together converter, good thing is when you blow up a tranny, you can take it apart and clean it and put it back in. Also if you are not happy with the stall, you can buy a stator,($250) and put that in yourself. I have an extra stator for mine.
I can tell you this, bolt togethers start at about 2000.00 a billet one my friend paid $4000.00 for a twin turbo BBC beast.
A regular welded one, if build for your needs, most converter shops give you 1 free restall. You try it, if it is to tight they loosen it, to loose they tighten it. It takes time to ship and then they have to cut it open and send it back.
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Old 12-04-18, 12:35PM   #3
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It's just a 600hp street car. A $2000 converter is not in the budget...
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Old 12-04-18, 02:06PM   #4
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A convertor is usually chosen by what the motor is makeing peak torque/hp at and the weight car. Gear..tire.

For example motor made peak torque at 5200, so a 4800 stall convertor will work. Usually stalls 3-400 rpms over were it makes peak torque. Itís tuff to make that call with all that information. For good street drive ability 3500-3800 stall convertor works good.

Thereís really no Off the shelves convertors, how it works you call convertor company with all your information listed above
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Old 12-04-18, 02:39PM   #5
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There are a bunch of off the shelf converters, just stick with good companies.
PTC, Pro torque, ATI, Precision...
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Old 12-04-18, 03:32PM   #6
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Quote:
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There are a bunch of off the shelf converters, just stick with good companies.
PTC, Pro torque, ATI, Precision...
That's the plan, but I have no idea where to start. Fortunately, this motor is going to make a ton of torque down low, so no need for crazy high stalls. I guess my biggest concern would be requiring 2500 rpm just to roll away from a red light. Would a 3000 rpm stall converter slip like crazy just driving around town? Highway isn't a concern, as lockup would stop that.
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Old 12-04-18, 03:41PM   #7
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Quote:
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For good street drive ability 3500-3800 stall convertor works good.
I know there's a lot of variables at play and this may be hard to answer, but in general, would a 3500 stall converter be able to pull the car in the 1500-2000 rpm range? Or would would this range be unusable?
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Old 12-04-18, 06:32PM   #8
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Hereís how a 3500 stall reacts, when you leave the light most likely your in first ( low gear ) then shifts ( or if you shift it manually ) or itís shifts automatically into second. Perfectly street able. Coz the convertor is locked up.

But letís say a block down road traffic slows, convertor becomes unlock, then you have to down shift to second for it to catch up, but if it slows down to say 20-30 mph, it really wants to be in first/low gear. Thatís when convertor slips because now itís playing catch up. Until it gets up to were the motor makes peak torque. Itís aggravating at times if your in Traffic or short runs. Kind of the price you pay for that hp you want.

Letís take say a stock 455 ( say from the showroom) they generally only have a 1000-1100 stall convertor. The cam usually/motor makes peak torque around 2500, so thereís no slip at all. Thatís say a hyd RamIV Cam.
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Old 12-04-18, 06:41PM   #9
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3500-3800 stall tho usually is best bet for cruising around. Itís all base on cam you pick, and were it makes peak torque. If you know the cam specís ( cam card ) were it gives you torque range then I could give you a better idea on what youíll need for a convertor.

Right now your kind of going ass end two, and could end up very disappointed. Cam specís is very important.
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Old 12-04-18, 06:56PM   #10
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Just read your other thread/post. You can put it in either one of those section, itíll still show up on a daily bases. The bar up top most people click on new threads on a daily bases. So they can follow threads.

Guess from your statement (high lift hyd roller can) youíre going to need a minimum of 3500-3800 stall convertor. You can always send it out and have it loosen or tighten up later.
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Old 12-04-18, 09:13PM   #11
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This is the cam I will be running:
https://butlerperformance.com/i-2936...319-hr114.html

I don't have the cam card, as I don't have the cam yet. It is shipping with the block, which is currently at the machine shop.
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Old 12-04-18, 09:53PM   #12
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(Std Journals) 300/306, 248/254, .563/.581, 114LS

Nice cam...3500-3800 stall would work great! With say a 4.250 or even a standard 4.210 stroke. Iím guessing peak torque around 3500-3800.
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Old 12-04-18, 09:55PM   #13
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Nice 10Ē convertor
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Old 12-05-18, 12:33AM   #14
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Who is picking the cam/ building the motor? Are you going to dyno it? If you are wait on the converter until you have the dyno sheet so you can get the best for your application. My cam is a solid roller about the same specs, 310 cfm dports, It is boosted, but really rips hard at 3300 on up.

How your going to use the car helps too.. More regular driving and roll racing you can get away with a tighter converter. Drag racing from a dig, you want more stall.
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Old 12-05-18, 01:11AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSPONT View Post
Who is picking the cam/ building the motor? Are you going to dyno it? If you are wait on the converter until you have the dyno sheet so you can get the best for your application. My cam is a solid roller about the same specs, 310 cfm dports, It is boosted, but really rips hard at 3300 on up.

How your going to use the car helps too.. More regular driving and roll racing you can get away with a tighter converter. Drag racing from a dig, you want more stall.
I am assembling the motor. Butler was consulted for the build and helped choose the best components for my requirements. There will be no dyno. As I said earlier, this is a street car that will visit the track (1/4 mile) a few times a year. The track is 5 minutes from my house, so why not...

I guess I'm looking for a good street converter that will perform decently at the track, not a good track converter that will perform decently on the street. If that makes any sense. This car will spend 90% of its life on the streets and at car shows.
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