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Old 05-15-19, 06:43PM   #256
Mr.Pontiac
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No i did not, Reading to much Fulper stuff i guess.lol
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Old 05-15-19, 06:51PM   #257
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You do not need to line hone with just installing studs. I never did on my 4 bolt 455 block. Just installed the studs.
And who has had one run as hard for as long as me ? Did not even deck it.
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Old 05-15-19, 06:59PM   #258
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Why am I not surprised...LOL
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Old 05-15-19, 07:04PM   #259
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You do not need to line hone with just installing studs. I never did on my 4 bolt 455 block. Just installed the studs.
And who has had one run as hard for as long as me ? Did not even deck it.
You were lucky..
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Old 05-15-19, 07:14PM   #260
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https://youtu.be/flbAkeKowBc
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Old 05-16-19, 12:19AM   #261
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My favorite show plus the stoogies!! Thanks for the memories
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Old 05-16-19, 12:41AM   #262
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You were lucky..
Its not like I was not talking to Dan about it. He said Pontiacs blocks came out of the factory good compared the Chevy and Ford. Usually the line bor is not bad.'Thing is, you can screw a block up real fast with a machinist that does not do them all the time. Line boring a block is not easy to say the least.
The guy that is finishing my Whittmore block called and asked about the mains. He said it looked to him like the line bore was not finished. I told him it was but go ahead and dial it out to check everything and let me know if something was not right.
He has not called back on it. Dan was so good at it he just barely kissed the block. You still can see some of the factory marks in the block. I might not even need a short chain.
I go it with the Eagle cast crank that Dan straightened and ground .010-.010 torqued and it spun perfectly.
Studs ? I can not figure out why it would have a effect on the line bore. The dowels locate the cap.
I have seen plenty of Fed up blocks from bad line bore and decking.
This guy will deck the 461.
I A2 will get the works.
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Old 05-16-19, 01:10AM   #263
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Learned alot about the subject lately like i did not know cam bearings come out to do the job and naturally new ones go in. Never saw it done love to watch it honed out. Trouble nobody likes you looking over there shoulder.Only concern i have is 2 machine shops told me the same thing. closer to parting line you get its hard to get Main bores perfect. I understand whats done with the caps & why its done, pretty straight forward. I personally fill Mains can be made perfectly round No excuses if you have the right machine.
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Old 05-16-19, 01:37AM   #264
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Itís simple if you think about it, why are studs preferred over regular old head bolts. Line hone is not the same as line bore. If you take .2-3 thousands of the caps, it could only shorten chain haft that. So what .1...11/2
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Old 05-16-19, 02:03AM   #265
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The studs change the deflection of the caps vs the bolts. So taking 2-3 off caps then line honeing makes them perfectly round. Off of that the block gets squared. Which produces equal cylinder volume. All part of making hp.

If you used studs you should definitely check the bores. So ok, 500-600 hp 5500 rpm range you might get away with it. But a motor thatís making 750-850 hp at 6500-7200 good possibilities you wonít.

Specially if you have any kind of detonation. So why did Dan line hone your block was it something he found..see what Iím saying.
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Old 05-16-19, 02:18AM   #266
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Rich think about it, the block gets Hot tanked so cam bearing have to come out.
Hereís a common problem, that Iíve found I would definitely check for, pull the front plugs to the oil gallery and checked oil gallery. Make sure their clean.

A friend had his motor done, when he fire it off, the lifters was making all kinds of noses, of course he didnít bother to pump oil up with a drill, long story short, when I pull front oil plugs, it was plugged solid, when they hot tanked the block oil gallery was fill sludge...they never bothered to clean them out.
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Old 05-16-19, 02:54AM   #267
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Quote:
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The studs change the deflection of the caps vs the bolts. So taking 2-3 off caps then line honeing makes them perfectly round. Off of that the block gets squared. Which produces equal cylinder volume. All part of making hp.

If you used studs you should definitely check the bores. So ok, 500-600 hp 5500 rpm range you might get away with it. But a motor thatís making 750-850 hp at 6500-7200 good possibilities you wonít.

Specially if you have any kind of detonation. So why did Dan line hone your block was it something he found..see what Iím saying.
Dan line bored then honed the 461 because he fit Program splayed billet caps. All but the rear. Thrust was fit checked then machined on the sides to his specs. Said that is the most important thing when doing them. The splayed part was a lot of fing around he said. Cost me another 200$ for the extra work. But he has a special jig to get them drilled and tapped right. I had straight billet caps there and when I found out the block was a non drilled 2 bolt had KRE ship him the splayed. He even had the thrust cap milled. I found a buyer and sold them. They were still wide enough for him.
Dan just so happened to have a virgin 400 block that was non drilled under his bench. Hard to find these days. Glad he liked me and sold it to me.

He never had the old 455 in his possession. Just the top end, rods and pistons. I did buy the rest of the engine parts from him. Sent him my distributor to get dialed in and my balancer. The old girl has seen 6500-6800 many times.
I already ran it for 13 years then I added the studs to it on a refresh when I went to solid roller. Pulled the SD rods and went with H beams. Just rebalanced the rotating assembly. Same old pistons.
Both of my engines have been through so much. Changing the game mid course more than once. Its why I am taking my time with the 540. I wont be rushed and still have a killer engine.
I will have to find a way to break it too the wife I have 2 builds going on. Any suggestions ???? She will figure it out sooner or later. Thing she likes it when i am out working on my car and racing. Got a good one for sure.
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Old 05-16-19, 02:59AM   #268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gach View Post
Rich think about it, the block gets Hot tanked so cam bearing have to come out.
Hereís a common problem, that Iíve found I would definitely check for, pull the front plugs to the oil gallery and checked oil gallery. Make sure their clean.

A friend had his motor done, when he fire it off, the lifters was making all kinds of noses, of course he didnít bother to pump oil up with a drill, long story short, when I pull front oil plugs, it was plugged solid, when they hot tanked the block oil gallery was fill sludge...they never bothered to clean them out.
I spent hours cleaning my block with shotgun brushes and lacquer thinner then mineral spirits. Don't forget to drill the galley plug .030 in front of the distributor Rich.
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Old 05-16-19, 11:47AM   #269
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Gach, & Dragncar, like i said pretty straight forward, I am probably at fault here using line boring instead of honing. Machine shops informed me because of the metal removed block should be cleaned afterwards, no big expence. Biggest concern is why did both shops say bores won,t be perfect and its always bigger at the parting line. Working in a Machine shop for 47 yrs i have run boring tables and have bored large chocks. I have checked all around even at split and always was round. I have cleaned & filed the caps all over whiped everything down with thinner. Torqued caps down 90 & 120 on rear accordingly. .030 hole was always first priority on all my motors. Locally nobody seems to be able to get a simple soft plug for rear of camshaft. 2 3/64 scratching my head on this one???Gach always second thing, i run brushes threw all oil galleys and tap and install new plugs. Front and back!!!
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Old 05-16-19, 01:29PM   #270
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The rear cam plug comes with your freeze plug kit
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