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Old 11-26-18, 02:12PM   #16
4speed
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Thanks for the input guys!!

The last time i checked the dynamic compression it was 195-200 psi, i use Edelbrock RPM intake. TDC on the balancer is at zero when nr 1 is up thats what i can say, i havent measured the balancer. it is maybe me expecting to much i dont know.
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Old 11-26-18, 02:25PM   #17
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Well you have the needed cylinder pressure for great throttle response, but how much can you increase the base timing until the motor gets hard to Crank , or how much mechanical timing can you bring in untill the motor pings at part throttle loads with out any vacuum advance hooked up?
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Old 11-26-18, 02:52PM   #18
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Guys,I have lived this stuff for the last 22 years!That duration and that rear gear unless a 3.42 first gear trans is going to be sluggish and wont like being under 2000 in high gear.Putting any advance in it from where its at now will only raise the pumping compression and might bring on detonation in 4th gear.DONT think of this as a race car.Numbers dont lie,I have been through this stuff with WAY too many cam changes and cam timing.JMHO,tom
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Old 11-26-18, 05:39PM   #19
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Tom! i fully understand what you mean and you have a point there, i must clarify that i dont think of it as sluggish when driving, its on idle when i fast pump on the trottle i want more response.
The timing is set on 32dgr locked out. when i did that the engine became more responsive wich i knew would be the case.

I think i will have to open her up and meassure the timing,, just to
exclude something.
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Old 11-26-18, 07:32PM   #20
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I meant adv on the cam not timing might add pumping comp.I have never run a locked dist on the street.I usually run 12 int and 32 total all in by 2000 with alu heads and same int on irons but usually 36 total. But also run vac adv on all my engines except for one which is a 421 SD dist without it.Tom
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Old 11-27-18, 01:04AM   #21
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I would check it..see if its at 110 ( usually cam card will say install it at and give you a number) I wouldnt be surprised if you found it at 112, if so advance it 4 degrees. allowing for chain Stretch.

Thing Ive notice with those timming chains is there way off installed Straight up.
sounds like you have the newer CNC chamber E-heads they like less timming so your timing sounds about right. the earlier E-heads liked 36 total.
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Old 11-29-18, 08:46AM   #22
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No GACH i have not, i use the old ones but have made some adjustments to the chamber (welding and grinding) and some porting, but still have std valves.

I now more and more feel the need to take the engine apart and meassure the camshaft, and maybe in that process change the camshaft, i know that these ramps can fail on me anytime so i was leaning on a roller if that should be the case.
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Old 11-29-18, 09:00AM   #23
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Old 11-29-18, 06:53PM   #24
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Nice ! You have any idea what the flow ?
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Old 11-30-18, 08:34PM   #25
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Run more initial advance, 18 degrees and make the total advance 36 degrees. Have it all in as soon as possible. I'm running eheads with those timing specs with no pinging problems. Cam is old faithfull from SD performance with CNC'd heads and intake.
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Old 11-30-18, 09:28PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73ta View Post
Run more initial advance, 18 degrees and make the total advance 36 degrees. Have it all in as soon as possible. I'm running eheads with those timing specs with no pinging problems. Cam is old faithfull from SD performance with CNC'd heads and intake.
Yeah Id give that a shot...see what it does.
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Old 11-30-18, 11:43PM   #27
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Check to see if there is a chassis dyno anywhere near you.Put it on there and power time it and see what the engine likes.Cant hurt.Tom
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Old 12-01-18, 08:14AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73ta View Post
Run more initial advance, 18 degrees and make the total advance 36 degrees. Have it all in as soon as possible. I'm running eheads with those timing specs with no pinging problems. Cam is old faithfull from SD performance with CNC'd heads and intake.
I have the timing locked out already at 32 dgr and no pingin, little hard to start when warm but i solved that problem wiht a swich to cut the battery + to the msd box, did try teh msd retard box but i felt the clutch did rattle somtimes, this is better.


Gach i have no numbers on the heads.

tjs44 You are right! but now im leaning towards a teardown and feel i could save the trip to the dyno for the spring when im done with the engine.

im going to start a new thread in the Engine Buildups in progress section, because im going to need som advise
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