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Old 07-21-05, 02:16PM   #31
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I just dont like it when the edges dont look as smooth as the rest of the paint.it's a big bitch to do them, but if you take your time it can be done. I wish there were a faster way, but perfection can't be rushed i guess
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Old 07-21-05, 04:25PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A. X.
Using the proper polisher/buffer is important too. Orbital buffers are not for rubbing out a paint job. In fact, I have yet to figure out what those are for. lol! The cheapo pads you get at Wal-Mart and Autozone aren't either. A good quality varitible speed polisher and top quality pads ( I like 3M pads) are key to doing a good job. This is not as complicated as people like to make it. The right tools and supplies makes this job a lot easier though, and a lot better in the end. Like Marty said. Don't skimp!
i think those cheap ones are for lazy people who dont want to apply or remove polish/wax by hand..and you would still have to go over it with a towel to get what you miss or cant get to with a buffer
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Old 07-21-05, 05:50PM   #33
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I use 3 different polishes/compounds when rubbing out paint. All 3M and they are not expensive.
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Old 07-21-05, 07:04PM   #34
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I use nothing but 3M Perfect it, and Perfect it II products..
Really want to know the secret on how to polish an edge without burning it?

Make sure the buffing pad is rotating in the direction away from the edge.
Pure and simple.
An example..
Polishing the rear right fender edge, use the bottom edge/surface of the buffer.


Since a pad rotation is always clockwise,
I use the top (or farthest away) edge/surface of a buffer when needing a right hand rotation.
And the inside(bottom)/ closet when needing to polish the opposite direction...

Generally buffing speed works best around 2,600-2,800 rpm.
Polishing I prefer closer to 3,000+ rpm.

The best pad to use for polishing, are the 3M "egg crate" foam pads.
Polishing paint....
You're actually "burnishing" the surface so higher speed is necessary to get the correct result..
How much compound do I normally use per car??
1 qt. Perfect buffing compound, and about 1/2 pint of Perfect it 2 polishing glaze.
That's it.
Plus the finest grit paper I use is maybe 1500 grit.
But normally 1200.
And if the paint is still fresh ( the actual preferred cutting time less then 24 hours old)
Then I'll only use 1000 grit paper to cut
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Old 07-21-05, 08:13PM   #35
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Marty,


What would be the proper way to make the car look like glass? I don't like that look like a skin of an orange. I seen a few paint jobs that look good even 12 inches away , but if you look up close you can see that it's not super flat. That bugs the hell out of me. I need it 100% smooth. for that would you have to wet sand bewteen coats or paint and clear? I helped my teaher wets and bewteen a 3 stage paint. I was not there when he did the final cuttign and buffing. but that was the best paitn job i have ever seen in my life. we spent about 1 week just sanding bewteen coats of paint and i think it took him a little longer then a week to do the cutting and buffing.
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Old 07-21-05, 11:19PM   #36
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You can always use that quart of compound/polish on something else. That stuff keeps for a long time.
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Old 07-22-05, 01:12AM   #37
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In some ways, todays urethanes are easier to lay down smooth, then the old lacquers were.
As long as the surface your painting is properly prepped before painting..
Then acheiving a smooth finish is easy.
Just use the proper reducer for the temp., make sure your gun is atomizing the color correctly, and don't try to "over paint" the panel.
The key word these day's is......
"Less is best"
The thicker the total material count, the more subsceptible to chipping it becomes.
That includes primer.
BUT!!!!
Clear needs a minimum of 3 mills thickness to avoid future UV delamination.
So if you want to cut and rub a car, you really need to decide that at the start.
Because you will need to apply 1-2 additional coats of clear.
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Old 07-22-05, 01:13AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A. X.
You can always use that quart of compound/polish on something else. That stuff keeps for a long time.
As long as it's kept sealed, it will last quite a long time
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Old 07-22-05, 07:47AM   #39
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But now this raises the question: when a n00b burns through clear AND the base gets charred there's gonna have to be touch-ups made and recleared, right?

Does this mean:
a) JUST the burned area should be sanded
b) the burn-mark can be touched-up w/base coat, allowed to dry and then sanded
c) apply some clear, let dry and wet sand/buff?

My question is... can you touch-up buffing-wheel burns by dabbing paint and clear on the wound? Or do you have to break out the touch-up gun and blend away from the mistake?


My Goat looked pretty good until I "cooked" it with that wheel.

~Mac
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Old 07-22-05, 10:56AM   #40
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Even oldies like me still burn paint at times.
Yeah you can touch up, then polish the damage.
If thru the base, apply lite touches of color till covered.
Let it dry for about 30 minutes.
Then start applying light touches of clear.
Let it all dry, lighty nib then hand polish
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Old 07-22-05, 03:19PM   #41
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Thanks, Marty!
As soon as this 90+ degree weather breaks in VA I'll give it a shot.

I was parked at a local car show and saw a woman walk up to my GTO. She seemed to be admiring it, then she leaned over, looked closely at the burn marks and winced.
The look on her face was the same as if someone told her she had a dinner date with Joey Buttafuco.


It was then and there I decided I'd better fix those paint blemishes.


One more dumba$$ question: I'm assuming it's OK to wet sand the entire car and give it a new buffing on 1-yr old clear?
I think the car woulda looked much better if I'd spent more time on the final cut n' polish.

Thanks again- you guys are heroes to help those of us who dare to paint on our own.

Mac
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Old 07-22-05, 04:06PM   #42
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LOL! Who wouldn't love a dinner date with Joey Buttafuco?
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Old 07-22-05, 07:33PM   #43
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Wait a sec... he was a body shop owner, wasn't he?
I wonder if he did good work?

I'll bet he was an insurance 'adjuster'!


G-72
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Old 07-22-05, 10:41PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goat72
Wait a sec... he was a body shop owner, wasn't he?
I wonder if he did good work?

I'll bet he was an insurance 'adjuster'!


G-72
Uhh.....
I am an Insurance Adjuster
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Old 07-23-05, 12:16AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty Phipps
Uhh.....
I am an Insurance Adjuster
No, Marty... you're probably not the kind I meant!

I've seen these "adjusters" use certain tools (2"x4" wood) to "adjust" insurance claims.

Know what i mean?
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