This is getting interesting.
The thread below was in fuel systems.
Boomers TA had some good insight as to a probable cause for the hard start condition.
I've had electric fuel pumps run, heat uo,quit and then run again after they cool off only to repeat the whole cycle all over again .NO FUN!
Could it be worn/bad contacts in the ignition switch?
I have seen Hondas show up with the same problem.
The ignition switch contacts are under engineered and do not have the current carrying capacity they should have.After a few years, when they heat up the the contacts distort & separate breaking contact to the primary wiring going to the ignition relay circuit.
The problem sometimes shows up faster depending upon how aftermarket accesories were wired into the electrical system.
It would also sometimes have an effect on the VVT or Vtec operation.
We found the trouble by reviewing the online TSB's(technical service bulletins) & mfgr. recall notices found on MITCHELL MANUALS "Mitchell On Demand" . That is one of the quickest ways to find a problem these days when the engine codes will not directly reveal a problem.It beats just throwing parts at the trouble hoping to hit the problem.
Your mechanic should have that type of capability.It makes the day go much faster .
The car even though over 10 years old was still elligible for the factory recall (because the switch had caused some car fires too). The dealer complained but it was a Honda USA factory order so they had to do it. Took less than an hour to replace.
Now this below is all old breaker point trouble tech but it may be a possibility even on a newer EFI car:
I've experienced a problem similar to this on a 1970 Firebird.(all GM breaker points dist cars especially 1969 through mid 1970s pre HEI cars can experience this.HEI will do same if contacts are gone/going away on the IGN/RUN part of the switch)
It turned out to be worn/bad contacts in the ignition switch.
I would be driving along and the car would just flame out without warning.
Attempts to restart would cause a start /a few pops and then nothing.
Let it cool off for about 1/2 hour and it would fire right up.
The frequency of the failure got worse.
Going crazy. COIL , Points/Cond. & primary wiring all good.
The AHAH! moment:
During one of the failures I hecked the ignition primary circuit to the coil with the switch in the "run" position and got ZERO volts. Switch to the cranking position and voltage showed up!That would explain engine trying to start and dying as soon as the key was released.It would start on the resistance wire bypass wire during cranking and when the key released, dead.
I put a jumper wire from the battery to the ignition wire & bingo car would start ,run and stay running.
Replaced the switch and all is OK.
After 200K plus miles and countless operating cycles the switches and other small stuff on cars just starts wearing out.