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Engine Buildups in progress Tell us what your latest project is, and post a few pics.

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Old 02-28-16, 07:45PM   #1
gtofreek
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Default 510 CID all aluminum street engine build.

I am starting the assembly of an all aluminum 510" street engine that might be of interest to some. It is going in a 69 Firebird. It came in about a year ago. Here is a link to the original thread started by the guy working on the car.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=766773

This engine had many issues, from stripped out main cap side bolts because the heli-coils were in crooked, to cracks in the main web, to main caps that were serrated on the sides so they would dig into the register of the block, to cylinder sleeves that were bored .040" off center. Then there was the crooked heli-coil in the deck for one of the head bolts, and the deck that was .060" short! Oh, and don't let me forget about the cement type substance they filled one side of the block with, and the epoxy crud they filled the other side with. The pin bushings had very little clearance, and the rod big end was small, and out of round. Many months later, and lots of work, it's finally ready to build. This engine will be dynoed in the next couple weeks.

Here is a shot of the crud in the rear oil gallery. Remember, this engine was sold as a ready to run short block.



A close up of it.



Here you can see the offset in the boring of these sleeves.



Here are the sleeves after pulling them out.



And the block without them.

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Old 02-28-16, 07:52PM   #2
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Here we welded up the two stripped out bolt holes to make them solid again.



Ground out, and welded up the crack in the number 2 main web. It was very small.



Getting the block squared up in the mill, getting ready to cut the registers, and oil pan rail. I had to lightly cut the top side of the block[in the four corners] square to the oil pan rail, so we could have the block sit square on the mill table in this position.



Using a dial indicator on the straight bar, to square it up.



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Old 02-28-16, 08:05PM   #3
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Next, we used an edge finder to find the edge of the main saddle so we could move an exact amount out to cut the registers a little wider to get rid of the serrations left by the main caps. This also gave us the dimension we needed to cut the width of the main caps after we welded up the sides.



New threaded holes, and re-cut registers.



The area that the main cap seats against had to be re-cut also since they were beat up and dented pretty bad. We cut .005" off.



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Old 02-28-16, 08:06PM   #4
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Here is the welded up crack repair after I align honed it and it was cut back flush in the mill.



Number 4 main saddle after welding up a hole someone drilled to oil the thrust, then screwed a wood screw into it to plug the hole, then ground it flush. We pulled the screw out, and welded it up, then re-shaped it.

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Old 02-28-16, 08:11PM   #5
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Here is a picture of the serrations someone cut into the cap sides.



Here are the main caps after we tig welded up the sides, then cut them to an exact dimension.





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Old 02-28-16, 08:14PM   #6
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Here is the block being align honed.



Here the block is all studded up and align honed.



Got the new sleeves installed. We downsized the bore from 4.360" as it was when it came in, to 4.250". With a 4.500" stroke, this makes 510.7 cubic inches.



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Old 02-28-16, 08:15PM   #7
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Next, we bored the lifter bores for bushings. Here is the block getting the fixturing setup on it.





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Old 02-28-16, 08:16PM   #8
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WOW! What a mess..nice work Paul. Really thorough too.
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Old 02-28-16, 08:17PM   #9
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Up in the mill getting bored!







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Old 02-28-16, 08:20PM   #10
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Next I drove in the bushings. We cut an elongated oil hole in them so they would always have oil pressure to the lifters oil band.



You can see the line I scribed on the bushings to indicate where to install them too. You can see it in the blue band. If they go too far, the cam will hit them.







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Old 02-28-16, 08:22PM   #11
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Here I am reaming the bushings to get them within .0015" of final size, which I will hone into them.



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Paul Carter
Carter Cryogenics
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Old 02-28-16, 08:24PM   #12
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Honing them to .0018" clearance.







The one on the right has been honed, the one on the left has not.

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Paul Carter
Carter Cryogenics
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520-409-7236
Koerner Racing Engines
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Your mind determines your limits!
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Old 02-28-16, 08:27PM   #13
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I decked it to 10.175" for a zero deck height.





Here are some shots of the crooked head stud hole.





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Old 02-28-16, 08:30PM   #14
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So we squared it up in the mill, and bored the hole with an endmill that was smaller than the size we wanted to drill for the thread insert. We did this with an endmill because a drill bit is more likely to follow the crooked hole. The endmill bores the hole straight so we can drill the correct size hole straight. We used a Lock-N-Stitch 1/2"x13 thread insert. These insert are unique in the fact that the threads are curved upwards, so when you tighten them, They pull the parent metal in towards the center, rather than spreading apart, like a conventional thread. They make crack repair pins the same way.



Then we tapped the hole, and installed the insert.





Now the suds are straight.



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Koerner Racing Engines
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Old 02-28-16, 08:31PM   #15
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