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Old 06-14-11, 06:58PM   #31
Glenn Lever
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Ok, Question
What lift and duration on a solid roller cam that the lifter valley can survive
Duration at .050…….278 to 284?????????????????
lift……………………………640 with a 1.5 ratio rocker…………………..680 with a 1.6 rocker
Engle EX-4 grind on the intake, EX-5 on the exhaust?????????

For a Pontiac stock block (1970 Ram Air III) ,blower engine, with lifter bore brace

Blower is an 8-71, high helix, stripped, retro

Stock main bearing size (3.00), GM (2.20) rod bearing size, Light weight Nitrided Crank (70 Lbs)

Deck height 10.239 bore 4.155

Compression ratio of 10 to 10.5 to 1

Custom built Venolia pistons and aluminum rods.

Kauffman High Port heads, 64 CC, 2.200 intake, 1.750 exhaust, titanium retainers, 10 degree locks, h-11 springs. (Solid roller cam) 380 CFM port work, 1200 series Ferrrea valves. ARP High Port head stud kit. ARP Rocker arm studs and a girdle.

Looking to be able to produce 1000 HP but tune to 850.

I'm taking the dragster out tomorrow night and again this Sat.

It has been running great although have had an idle problem, but believe that has been fixed (user error)

Best run is 8.810 at 152.790 reaction time of .502

Starting tomorrow we will be working on slowing it down to a 9.000 index for NDRL racing http://www.nostalgiadragleague.com/Home.html

Looking to be able to produce 1000 HP but tune to 850
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Old 06-15-11, 02:30AM   #32
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with a blower, and that much head, the cammy could be very mild..it will still make bonus power..
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Old 08-26-11, 02:02AM   #33
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Progress has been slow but there has been progress.

I'm currently looking for the crankshaft hub and pulley and am only finding kits. Any help?

I do not want a kit at the moment as the blower is a retro blower and will have to be moved back with an adapter plate yet to be built. Becuase of that I do not know the length of the snout for the blower.

Below is a list of parts bought and on hand

Engine: 400 Pontiac ram air III block 1970
Deck 10.240
Stroke 4.000
Head Gasket 4.200 Bore/ .043 Thick
Forged four bolt main caps
Moon Front Timing Chain Cover for dual drive for Mag and Pump
Scraper
Kauffman lifter valley brace

Enderle front Offset dual drive

Intake Modified BDS Blower Intake

Ignition Mallory Super III Magneto

Crankshaft RPM-455A400C 4340
light weight (70 pounds)
Forged
Nitrided
Pontiac 400 3.00 Main 4.00 stroke GM Rod Journals

Blower Littlefield 8-71
high helix
stripped
retro
Bird Catcher
injector hat

Proposed Engle Roller cam
SOLID ROLLER PROFILE
GRIND LIFT LIFT LIFT LIFT DURATION DURATION DURATION
NUMBER 1.7 Rocker 1.6 Rocker 1.5 Rocker @ Cam @ Lash .020" @ .050" @.200"
EX-4 .731" .688" .645" .430" 316 278 190
EX-5 .731" .688" .645" ,430" 323 284 196

Custom built Venolia pistons and aluminum rods.
Pistons: 4.155 Bore
.990 Pin/Supply Pins & Spiro Locks
2.200 intake notch/ 1.750 Exhaust notch
15cc Dish Includes Valve Notches
10.5 Comp. for Blown Alcohal
1.605 Compression Distance
Aluminum Rods:
Big Block Chevy Big End and Pin Bore
2.200/2.325 Bore .990
6.635 Center – Center
-.010 Aluminum

Kauffman heads High Port
64 CC,
2.200 intake, 1.750 exhaust,
titanium retainers,
10 degree locks,
h-11 springs. (Solid roller cam)
380 CFM port work,
1200 series Ferrrea valves.
ARP High Port head stud kit.
ARP Rocker arm studs and a girdle.
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Old 08-26-11, 12:32PM   #34
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I have found this,

BDS-170
350-455 Pontiac crank hub, neutrally balanced and will accept the stock factory V-Groove pulleys with the Pontiac six (5/16-18) bolt pattern. Requires BDS-701V adapter spacer to attach a blower pulley. Includes timing tape

Problems,

Pontiac six (5/16-18) bolt pattern.

What, don't I want the Chrysler Hemi bolt pattern which seems to be the standrard for blower pulleys?

Requires BDS-701V adapter spacer to attach a blower pulley

And this
3360 400-455 Pontiac Crank Hub, External Bal. $160.92 (which brings up the whole discussion on Pontiac external balance.
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Old 12-20-11, 05:21PM   #35
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Slow but getting there.

I will not be running the blower engine this year, did not get enough seat time in the last season.

We are thinking on getting to an 8.5 index with the current engine by putting in a bigger cam and different intake.

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Old 12-23-11, 01:25PM   #36
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The Cam

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Old 12-23-11, 06:42PM   #37
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The blower engine looks sweet!
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Old 12-24-11, 02:21PM   #38
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Engine looks bad ass.
But I would not run a 4 bolt RAIII block as they are worth too much money to do what you are doing to it.
I have one and decided to splay cap a 73 2 bolt 400 block instead.
A 67 2 bolt 400 block would be the choice. ( have one also) They are thicker than the rest. Splayed caps no matter what flopper says are better than straight. And the outer bolts are only 7/16 which gives you more meat. Marty P made the most factory block power with a 67 400 and spayed caps.
I would run the SD brace instead of the KRE. I have both and the KRE brace just "pulls down by little bolts you have to take your cam bearings out and drill and tap into them, no thanks.
The SD brace is far stronger and "sandwiches" itself in there.
RAIII blocks are worth 1500$. For that price you can get a 67 for 250$ and do the splayed billet can thing and have the strongest factory Pontiac block short of a SD, RAV or 59. Well there was Beswicks, the inspiration for the IA1.

Good luck with it.
BTW someone suggested you get a billet crank with a BBC snout. I was not aware that you could get the timing components, chain or belt to work with it ?
Do they now make this stuff?
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Old 12-24-11, 05:11PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragncar View Post
Engine looks bad ass.
But I would not run a 4 bolt RAIII block as they are worth too much money to do what you are doing to it.
I have one and decided to splay cap a 73 2 bolt 400 block instead.
A 67 2 bolt 400 block would be the choice. ( have one also) They are thicker than the rest. Splayed caps no matter what flopper says are better than straight. And the outer bolts are only 7/16 which gives you more meat. Marty P made the most factory block power with a 67 400 and spayed caps.
I would run the SD brace instead of the KRE. I have both and the KRE brace just "pulls down by little bolts you have to take your cam bearings out and drill and tap into them, no thanks.
The SD brace is far stronger and "sandwiches" itself in there.
RAIII blocks are worth 1500$. For that price you can get a 67 for 250$ and do the splayed billet can thing and have the strongest factory Pontiac block short of a SD, RAV or 59. Well there was Beswicks, the inspiration for the IA1.

Good luck with it.
BTW someone suggested you get a billet crank with a BBC snout. I was not aware that you could get the timing components, chain or belt to work with it ?
Do they now make this stuff?
Thanks, I really like the “looks” also.

I’m too far into this RAM Air engine now to go back. It is a twin to the strocker that is currently in the dragster and I like that. In addition the doll pins on the front cap have been modified to accept the Pro-Line caps. It has also been line bored for the new caps, oil restrictors have been installed at the lifter bores, the oil galleys have been drilled out to ½ inch, and the block has been taped for a remote oil filter.

I have heard pros and cons on splayed bolts. They do hold the cap better, but they rob material from a particularly thin part of the block.

I would like to hear more on the “SD” brace. Source? How does it “sandwich” itself?

I watched for this Ram Air block for a long time and picked it up for $400.00.

I am using a forged Pontiac crank with BBC rod journals, Pontiac mains and snout. I purchased the Ford Hub as suggested above but it felt like there was too much play in the fit (hub to crank) I called RCD Engineering and they sent me a Ford hub rough cut to Pontiac Crank and we will hone it out so that it is a .001 press fit.

I have purchased a Milodon 13900 Timing Gear Drive (Single idler)
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Old 11-04-12, 05:03PM   #40
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Once again I am behind in my updates; there have been three more meetings of the Car Nuts. I am truly learning just how much I do not know. If I do not do the updates right away they get harder to do and I forget stuff (is that because I’m an old fat guy?)

We left off with the blower spaced up with 2X4 blocks.

Car nuts meeting 10 /20/2012 had a great turn out. Lots of old members showed up.

Bob took on the task of unpacking new presents. Had a 4 inch spacer from Alkydigger, Pulleys, blower snout, two different idler pulley brackets, idler pulley and Pontiac crank snout form USA Supercharger, and a crank snout from RCD



First thing we did was remove the 2X4 blocks and install the 4 inch spacer between the intake and blower, and bolt on the snout. The spacer will need some machine work (burst panel installed and clearanced inside to the retro port on the blower.



Steve, our technical advisor, held class on setting up a belt drive for a blower



We tried the snout, snout idler, and crank hub from USA Super charger.

We found that the crank hub from USA blower moved the belt way out in front of the engine, and would require the battery to be moved. On the really nice side, everything lined up in a perfect plain for the belt. The belt would clear the water pump with lots of clearance. The degree wheel was way away from the pointer so a new pointer would have to be made



The idler (blower mounted) bracket was tried and it was founded that it would have to be spaced way out to work.

We ponder this set up and decided that we did not like all the leverage on the end of the crankshaft, that we wanted to move everything closer to the front of the engine.

So everything was ripped back of, the RCD hub was installed on the crank shaft, the blower mounted idler pulley bracket was installed and we found that nothing lined up. The snout is too long, and cannot be used, the crank pulley needs to be spaced out by ½ inch to get the belt to clear the pump, and the idler pulley needs to be spaced out 5/16 of and inch to line up with the crank pulley, which just happens to be the thickness of the harmonic balancer retaining washer.



With the RCD hub and degree wheel the pointer is now in a perfect location


So….. it actually took going back and forth several times with these setups to come to the conclusion that the hard way is the best way.

The snout needs to be replaced with a shorter one, two spacers need to be made one for the idler pulley and one for the crank pulley, and then everything will line up, the belt is nice and close to the front of the engine and has a 1/8 inch clearance to the water pump. Now we have to find a belt that fits. In addition the spacer needs to be machined, which means I have to find someone to do it.

We are abjured for the day, with lots of research to do and parts to find.

I have attached several photos, as always you can go to the web site for a full update and lots of pictures.

This update is at this link

http://www.leverfamilysite.com/2010_...2012_10_20.htm



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Old 11-06-12, 02:04PM   #41
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Ok, how did this happen?

They Multiplied!

The Barndoor is up for action now on fee-bay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221149921127...84.m1558.l2649

The bug catcher will be shortly after I clean it up.

The carb is plan "B" if the injection does not work out.

The Birdcatcher is currently plan "A"
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Glenn R. Lever
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Old 11-06-12, 08:01PM   #42
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The Barn Dood is sold
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Glenn R. Lever
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Old 11-06-12, 08:01PM   #43
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I’m still playing catch up with the Car Nut's Updateds on the blower install this is from 10 27 2012.

I’m sure that I have forgotten something and put something out of order.

Ok, This is a small update compared to the last one as it is pretty much a duplication of the last one, except many parts were returned and different ones were ordered.

Below is a list of the new parts that were ordered

Ordered from Littlefield
Blower Snout 5.120
3/8 pulley spacer for crank pulley
Starter belt shield

Ordered from Good Vibrations Motorsports
3 Pack green gasket set for blower
Burst panel frame with 10/32 screws
3 pack burst panel
4.25 idler pulley with standoff and hardened washer Off set unknown (might be 1 inch, need 1 ¼).
4 X 5/8 / 18 bolt
t-nut

USA Supercharger
Belt, 190 tooth rubber with Kevlar fiber
Top plate for single dominator carb

ARP
2 ½ / 5/8 /18 crank bolt


We bolted the new parts on



Spaced the idler pulley and crank shaft pulley out temperately and cranked the engine over to see where the belt would run



This can be seen on a short u-tube video at this link

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQV_4...ature=youtu.be

Settled on the BirdCatcher injector hat as plan “A”



So now we are ready for some machine work next week;

Clearance the spacer between the blower and intake for the forward outlet of the retro blower, machine the front so that the burst panel can be mounted, open up a path from the front to the rear of the intake in the spacer. Machine a spacer for the idler pulley, machine a spacer for the crank pulley.
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Old 11-10-12, 09:30PM   #44
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[size="3"]I am combining the car nuts meetings of 11/3/2012 and 11/10/2012. I will finally be caught up.

I have updated my web site with this update. If you view it there it will make more sense as the pictures are many more pictures and the are mingled with the text at the proper points to make sense.

The link is below
http://www.leverfamilysite.com/2010_...2012_11_10.htm

There will be no car nuts meeting for 11/17/2012

I received yet another injector hat in the mail, this one is a bug catcher that came with a bunch of other parts which we will be able to use. Packing was not great, and the items were not in as good of condition as hoped. Fee-Bay is always a crap shoot



We had a number of contributors through these to gatherings. Between Ray and Steve we were able to come up with plan for the spacers needed for both the bottom pulley and the idler pulley. The bottom pulley was fairly interesting as a number of things had to happen.



The pulley had to be moved ½ inch out from the hub to get the belt to ride in the center of the pulley, by doing this we lost the register for the fuel pump drive, also with the new crank hub the stock retaining washer was to small in diameter to reach the outside diameter of the new crank hub. So Ray machined a new retaining washer that had the outside dimension of the crank hub, the washer was stepped so that it would fit inside the crank hub.



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Old 11-10-12, 09:31PM   #45
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With the outside dimension the same as the hub and sitting proud of the hub this became the register for the fuel pump drive. It goes together like this.





The Idler pulley was a lot easier, all it required was a 5/16 spacer to get the belt into the correct position.



I have been told a number of times that my gold colored valve covers are not everyone’s favorite, I happen to think that they go nicely with the gold leaf stripping on the body of the dragster.

An informal vote was taken amongst the car nuts and it has been decided to go to a set of fabricated aluminum valve covers, what do you think?



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