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Old 07-28-12, 11:18AM   #91
paul
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gach View Post
Here's what I'm talking about, just and example

Say a 500 HP 455
Here's the carb you'll need, 850 cfm ( part # )here's jet size, squirter size.
Distributer, here's how it should set up. 36 degrees total all in by 1500 rpms.
Cam, rocker 1.65
Convertor size and stall. A brake down of the whole combination.
With a claimer saying everything can be bought from us, one piece at a time or the whole package. You know things like what gear, what tire size. Things ok you just want the block prep, or just crank done for now. Trust me the frist who dose this will have a ton of business. What it also shows is your prices are very competitive. Instead of a guy having to ask a million questions on the boards and have to go though the drama and poltics of the little clicks that usually control the boards.

I think there should be a section just for this, one where a customer could e-mail or call- PM. That vender. But first that vender need to establish a range of HP levels. Car weights and types. That would give guys a perfectly good idea for his build and what the cost would be for total package.
interesting thought. There is a lot of misinformation thrown out there in the quest for sales. I think the worst one is overcamming your engine just to get your engine to make power over 5,500, or the belief that a roller cam is necessary to make power above 6,000 rpm. Here's a tip for the guys that may not know: (1) LOOK AT YOUR BUDGET FIRST!!! (2) Be realistic about your goals. (3) Consider your vehicles componentry and dynamics BEFORE you purchase engine parts, ie, vehicle weight, trans type, gearing, etc. That will tell you what kind of torque curve your engine will need in order to pull that 4,000 lb barge or that 3,000 lb flyweight. (4) Build a shortblock that will last for the rpm and power you want to make, then put the money in the heads and intake, THEN the camshaft. The cam is just one part of an entire combination.

Carburetion: There are some talented carb guys out there that do a great job, but, if your engine is configured with a broad torque curve in mind, as in---NOT OVERCAMMED--- the less carb and ignition modifications you will need. A broad torque curve and good peak power are NOT mutually exclusive.

cylinder heads: The EASIEST way to make a head look good is to put a bigger valve in it. There is some merit to that approach because you will then increase the curtain area for a given valve lift. Look at the ENGINE MASTERS competition, it has been found for extremely low rpm, the addition of an extremely large intake valve was of benefit. I think the Pontiac racers with their 2.11 intake and 2" of port area have known that for a while. What isn't mentioned is the WEIGHT of an overly large intake valve and its effect on rpm.

Camshaft: You are probably not going to want the quickest accelerating LOBE out there. It won't make, but could break, your combination if you are not careful. AGAIN, RACERS NEED EVERY EDGE AND THERE ARE GAINS TO BE FOUND THERE. Above all else, you can make well over 550hp@ 5,900rpm with a flat tappet 274/286 Comp cam, a 750 Q-jet, and Ram Air exhaust manifolds on a typical 461. In this case, the time was spent on the Performer RPM intake and hand ported E-heads. Nothing special, just part of a combination.

ALSO, VERY IMPORTANT; A street car is NOT a race car, the rpm range and camshaft requirements are TOTALLY different. A street car MUST idle, MUST NOT overheat, MUST be dependable.

THIS POST IS FOR THE AVERAGE GUY THAT IS WANTING SOME PERFORMANCE FROM MY PERSPECTIVE AND EXPERIENCE.

I hope this can help someone,
Paul
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Last edited by paul : 07-28-12 at 12:17PM.
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Old 07-28-12, 01:01PM   #92
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Originally Posted by paul View Post


cylinder heads: The EASIEST way to make a head look good is to put a bigger valve in it. There is some merit to that approach because you will then increase the curtain area for a given valve lift. Look at the ENGINE MASTERS competition, it has been found for extremely low rpm, the addition of an extremely large intake valve was of benefit. I think the Pontiac racers with their 2.11 intake and 2" of port area have known that for a while. What isn't mentioned is the WEIGHT of an overly large intake valve and its effect on rpm.

Paul
100% correct
Old ported Pontiac iron heads can be done to blow away good aftermarket aluminum heads under .500
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Old 07-28-12, 06:22PM   #93
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Sounds good to me.
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Old 09-30-12, 02:40PM   #94
Jeffs 64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul View Post
interesting thought. There is a lot of misinformation thrown out there in the quest for sales. I think the worst one is overcamming your engine just to get your engine to make power over 5,500, or the belief that a roller cam is necessary to make power above 6,000 rpm. Here's a tip for the guys that may not know: (1) LOOK AT YOUR BUDGET FIRST!!! (2) Be realistic about your goals. (3) Consider your vehicles componentry and dynamics BEFORE you purchase engine parts, ie, vehicle weight, trans type, gearing, etc. That will tell you what kind of torque curve your engine will need in order to pull that 4,000 lb barge or that 3,000 lb flyweight. (4) Build a shortblock that will last for the rpm and power you want to make, then put the money in the heads and intake, THEN the camshaft. The cam is just one part of an entire combination.

Carburetion: There are some talented carb guys out there that do a great job, but, if your engine is configured with a broad torque curve in mind, as in---NOT OVERCAMMED--- the less carb and ignition modifications you will need. A broad torque curve and good peak power are NOT mutually exclusive.

cylinder heads: The EASIEST way to make a head look good is to put a bigger valve in it. There is some merit to that approach because you will then increase the curtain area for a given valve lift. Look at the ENGINE MASTERS competition, it has been found for extremely low rpm, the addition of an extremely large intake valve was of benefit. I think the Pontiac racers with their 2.11 intake and 2" of port area have known that for a while. What isn't mentioned is the WEIGHT of an overly large intake valve and its effect on rpm.

Camshaft: You are probably not going to want the quickest accelerating LOBE out there. It won't make, but could break, your combination if you are not careful. AGAIN, RACERS NEED EVERY EDGE AND THERE ARE GAINS TO BE FOUND THERE. Above all else, you can make well over 550hp@ 5,900rpm with a flat tappet 274/286 Comp cam, a 750 Q-jet, and Ram Air exhaust manifolds on a typical 461. In this case, the time was spent on the Performer RPM intake and hand ported E-heads. Nothing special, just part of a combination.

ALSO, VERY IMPORTANT; A street car is NOT a race car, the rpm range and camshaft requirements are TOTALLY different. A street car MUST idle, MUST NOT overheat, MUST be dependable.

THIS POST IS FOR THE AVERAGE GUY THAT IS WANTING SOME PERFORMANCE FROM MY PERSPECTIVE AND EXPERIENCE.

I hope this can help someone,
Paul
I have your basic 70s style 462, TRWs zero decked, forged rods, 6x8 heads ported, Crower 60919 (041) cam. For the life of me, I can't see how or why you would need anything more then this on the street. And I run a 2.56 cog behind it all... I see guys at cruises all the time that have more power then they know what to do with and they look foolish to me..
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Old 10-01-12, 02:21AM   #95
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I've never in my life had more power than I needed, always want more. If you're content with a little bit then great. Honestly I wish I were but I just have the speed bug. Driving around with a bunch of power on demand is fun and I love the sound it all makes.
Have fun, stay safe.
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