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Old 04-07-07, 02:09PM   #1
A. X.
 
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Exclamation Reverse Taping Method for painting patched areas

The Reverse Taping method is used to blend the old paint to the newly sprayed paint when repairing a patch area. This method allows you to "feather" the paint so that there is a minimal definition line between the new and old paint. This allows you to repair a panel without completely repainting the entire thing.

NOTE: This is for single stage paint. Not Base/Clear. I'll explain the Base/Clear method in the next post of this thread.

Make Sure To Read This Entire Post Before Starting!!

1. Mask off any areas that you do no want painted or any overspray to get on.

2. Make sure that you prime/seal the patched area, but leave enough of an area where your old paint is visible. Your old paint will act as the sealer/primer and it must be sanded just like your primer/sealer.

*It is best to decide how much of the panel you are willing to paint before you start. If you are going to paint up to a body line, then make sure to leave enough old paint visible so you can reach it. I like to go a little past the body line, because when you color sand and polish, you will be removing paint. This will allow you to remove enough to come even with the body line.

3. Once everything is ready to apply the paint, get your masking paper ready. I like to use wide masking tape for this, as it works better. Basically, you will be "rolling" the tape back with each coat of paint, so as not to build up too much on any one coat. Wide tape works best for this.

I like to use at least two peices of wide masking tape that overlap one another on a peice of masking paper.

4. Place the prepared masking paper on the panel to be painted over the old paint.

5. Pull the paper back, exposing about a 1/4" - 1/2" of the sticky side of the tape. Use small peice of tape to hold the paper back. DO NOT pull the paper tight. You want it to look "Rolled" back. This will control the amount of build when you spray.

6. Now you're ready for your first coat. Spray the paint on lightly. This is not a place for heavy coats. You will be doing several coats, so make sure they are light coats. especailly around the rolled edge of the tape.

7. Once the paint has flashed you will need to roll the masking paper back about another 1/4" - 1/2" for your second coat.

8. Spray your second coat, just like the first.

9. Slowly work your way up to the stopping point with each coat. The amount of coats you apply is up to you. 3 will usually do it, but you may want more if you plan to color sand/polish. Just make sure that you have accounted for the amount of space you will need to keep rolling the tape back after each coat.

Once finished, allow it to cure enough, then get ready to color sand/polish.

When color sanding/polishing, you will want to take off only what you need to blend the new paint into the old. Allow the polisher to do the removing of the paint. Just color sand enough to remove the orange peel. You will want to color sand and polish the entire panel, as it will allow the paint to blend better.

I will be posting some pics to aid in this shortly.
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Old 04-07-07, 02:19PM   #2
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Base/Clear Reverse tape method:

Basically, the only difference here is how you apply your base coat. You will apply the base with a few coats and roll the tape back with each one. Then you will apply your clear using the same method. You may need to insure you have enough space to roll the tape back for the extra coats you will need. Some like to spray the base up to the body line, then leave enough space for the clear after the body line. The new clear will blend in with the old clear as you color sand and polish.

Some people like to allow the base to dry, and try to feather the edge a bit before applying the clear. If you spray lightly on your last coat, you shouldn't need to do this.
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Old 04-07-07, 02:47PM   #3
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The entire top of this car was repainted with the Reverse Tape Method. I decided to go down to the sail panels since that was the smallest area. I had to do it right before the sail panel birds though. Being this car is black, also made for a challenging problem. As you can see, it blended beautifully, and no one can tell it's been repainted.

Pic #1 Is a shot of the prepaired paper/tape. I suggest you use better quality tape that this. It's all I had on hand.

Pic #2 is hope I applied the masking paper before rolling it back.

Pic #3 is a shot of the paper as it is rolled back and ready for the first coat.

Pic #4 is another view othe the rolled tape.

Pic #5 is the finished product after painting, color sanding and polishing.

BTW, Please forgive me for having a dirty car. lol!
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Old 04-07-07, 11:39PM   #4
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Great thread!
Wish I'd read it years ago, lol.
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Old 04-08-07, 10:04AM   #5
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Have you ever tried "blending " clear?, no need for tape.
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Old 04-08-07, 12:24PM   #6
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Actually, there is. Clear builds just like any paint and will leave a definition line, just like any paint. You don't really need to tape on any paint if you like overspray clean-up, but who wants that. The Reverse Tape Method is how to do it correctly with minimal labor and clean-up. No one said it's the only way, but it's certainly a better way.
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Old 04-08-07, 01:51PM   #7
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Just what I needed. I have a spot on the hood of my truck that I wanna spray. Thanks
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Old 04-16-07, 08:59PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A. X. View Post
Actually, there is. Clear builds just like any paint and will leave a definition line, just like any paint. You don't really need to tape on any paint if you like overspray clean-up, but who wants that. The Reverse Tape Method is how to do it correctly with minimal labor and clean-up. No one said it's the only way, but it's certainly a better way.
if you ever tried blending clear you would know that there is no overspray and no clean up. hence the name "blending clear" I am not talking about blending regular clear into a panel, I am talking about the product "blending clear" I used it many times to blend small repairs on the ends of bumper covers and such, no tape required other than your adjacent panels...............I have been a profesional bodyman for over 25 years, kinda know what i am talkin about....

http://performancecoatings.dupont.co...rcoatBlndg.pdf

http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/fl...pair/gns35.cfm
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Last edited by Jeffzilla : 04-16-07 at 09:47PM.
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Old 04-16-07, 10:15PM   #9
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If you would have stated that it was a product, instead of trying to come off like an arrogant know-it-all, you may have been taken more seriously. See, I'm an arrogant smart ass for over 35 years, so I kinda know what I'm talking about.
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Old 04-17-07, 08:17AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A. X. View Post
If you would have stated that it was a product, instead of trying to come off like an arrogant know-it-all, you may have been taken more seriously. See, I'm an arrogant smart ass for over 35 years, so I kinda know what I'm talking about.
so asking the question have you ever tried "blending" clear, comes off as an arrogant know it all huh? Interesting................
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Old 04-17-07, 08:46AM   #11
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Your lack of info made your statement look as such. Saying, Have you ever tried "blending" clear, does in no way suggest that you're speaking of a product. It does look like you're trying to come off as a smart ass. So if I was mistaking, please forgive me.

See, I can't count the amount of autobody by trade guys who have come here, and have been in the biz for 25, 30, 35+ years, who only post because they want to stroke their own egos, and are really not wanting to help anyone. So please forgive me if I am a bit jaded.
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Old 04-17-07, 05:38PM   #12
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no harm, no foul..............I am more than willing to share my experience and answer any questions that I can................
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Old 04-17-07, 10:17PM   #13
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ha ! when you screw up as much as i do you better be good at blending clear.
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