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Old 02-05-14, 02:24PM   #16
LMS-RACER
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Question Does He?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gach View Post
When I did 4 bolts caps on my stock block, I couldn't fin pins anywhere. Ended up getting them from P-Dude.
Gach,
Does Ken actually have the correct dimension pins made from the correct material? If he does then I'll get mine there from now on.

As for the camshaft thrust plate, yes the factory warped plate will work. I want a plate that is as flat as possible (Blanchard Ground) from the correct material that I can properly heat treat, apply the correct coating to and end up with the correct thickness plate.

I've been tied up with many other projects as of late, but I haven't forgotten these items.

BTW, I realize that I'm pickier than most and that the "That'll be Good Enough" phrase just doesn't fly in my world. But that's me.

Probably what will happen, as it usually does, is that I'll make the parts in a quantity great enough to offer them for sale, keep plenty for my purposes, sell off the remainder and then that'll be that.

I've never made any amount of money to speak of selling pontiac parts anyway.

Sorry I've been away so long.
Thanks,
Larry S.
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Old 02-05-14, 02:38PM   #17
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Thumbs up Main Cap Dowel Pins...

Guys,
The Dowel Pins that I'm speaking of will be longer than stock so that they can be used in combination with the stock main caps. Most aftermarket caps come with dowel pins and since the block is going to be align bored anyway, the block can be drilled/reamed for the larger 0.3125" dowel pins before the aftermarket cap is located and the block is align bored.

What I'm after is a longer, factory dimension, dowel pin to be used with the stock main caps. Whether you use all five stock main caps or you just reuse the factory front and rear main caps or you reuse just the rear main cap. In alot of cases the cap will just drop onto the stock dowel pin which can lead to "Cap Walk" in high powered applications. By installing longer, factory dimension dowel pins the additional engagement in the main cap helps to maintain it's position on the block under a high stress situation.

Also, a dowel pin that creates a "Press/Interference" Fit in a stock cast iron cap is likely to crack that cap. That's not an option. A press fit in an aftermarket steel billet cap is no problem, just not what you want to do with a cast cap.

Thanks,
Larry S.
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Old 02-05-14, 02:45PM   #18
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Thumbs up Cam Retainer/Thrust Plate...

Guys,
The cam retainer plates on the market are all over the place. They're warped, they have thickness variation across the thrust surfaces due to an improper heat treating procedure, while others are just the wrong dimension all together.

Now don't get me wrong, there are good alternatives out there like the thrust bearing assembly on the Milodon Gear Drive and the thrust bearing/cam retainer/cam gear assembly offered by one of the other members. What I'm after is an affordable, factory replacement, cam retainer that excedes the quality of everything else on the market and the factory piece for that matter.

That is all,
Larry S.
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Old 02-16-14, 05:36PM   #19
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Check with a company called Holo-Krome.They make hardened dowel pins for industry in different materials and incremental sizes.Bill C.
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Old 06-06-14, 08:12AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gach View Post
When I did 4 bolts caps on my stock block, I couldn't fin pins anywhere. Ended up getting them from P-Dude.
at the time I needed dowels, I was taking a '71 455 block from a station wagon, and putting factory 428 caps on it. the block was already d/t for 4 bolt mains but only had 2 bolt caps with small dowels. The 428 caps had larger dowel pins. I bought the caps at Caryle swap meet for $50, and the dowels at the hardware store in their aisle parts drawers, they were like 25 cents each. I guess they were easier to find back then, this was 1988. They were very long dowels. I took them to work and cut them to length on the small cutoff saw, so they reached to the top flush on each cap, then filed the ends to taper them. Then took the block to my friend's machine shop, he drilled the main saddle dowel holes to the larger size in a Bridgeport for $25. then I tapped the dowels in with a small hammer, bolted the caps on, and had it line bored. I ran it that way for a little while with RA V heads, but later when I had the pistons dished to lower CR, I had it align honed, to a nicer cross hatch finish and the bottom end balanced.

the long pins do hold the caps more firmly than the short pins do. you can tell when you remove all the main bolts, the cap is still on there really tight and you have to carefully pry and knock it off with a block of wood. it's almost like having 2 more bolts on each cap, it is a good idea.
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Old 06-06-14, 12:56PM   #21
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Can just use drill rod and cut it to whatever length you need
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Old 10-08-15, 12:55PM   #22
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Exclamation Dowel Pins in Stock.

Well Guys I Finally got the Dowel Pins Manufactured and they're In Stock.

Here's a Few Photos to Illustrate the Differences Between the Stock,Factory Dowel Pins and Our Extended Length Dowels.

With these Installed in the Block the Main Caps are Much Better Located. With the Stock Dowels Pins the Factory Main Caps Actually Rock on the Dowels. Not With Ours.

Click image for larger version

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With Our Dowel Pins Installed Fully into the Block, they Stick Out or Protrude Approximately 0.270" Further. I Say Approximately because We have Found that the Dowel Pin Holes in the Block are Drilled to Various Depths from the Factory. No Two Blocks are Exactly the Same.

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Here's a View Side by Side.

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Here's a View with a Main Cap Installed.

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Here's a View of the Factory Dowel Pin.

Click image for larger version

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Here's a View of Our Dowel Pin.

As I Mentioned Previously, These Pins are NOT 5/16" or 0.3125". They are the Correct 0.3095" Diameter the Same as the Originals.

What I've Found is that Utilizing the Longer Pins Reduces "Cap Walk" and Improves the Quality of the Align Honing Process. Consider that if the Cap can Move, Even Slightly, while Torquing the Main Cap Fasteners, the Align Honing Process is Really Useless.

They Sell for $4.25 Each. I'll Sell as Many as You Want. No Minimums.

Thanks,
Larry S.
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Old 10-08-15, 03:38PM   #23
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U can also use the pins out of the front of the cam on the S B Ford. Most replacement cams have both a long and short pins.
U can purchase the pins thru Pioneer.
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Old 10-08-15, 04:17PM   #24
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Default True, But....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pontiac Dude View Post
U can also use the pins out of the front of the cam on the S B Ford. Most replacement cams have both a long and short pins.
U can purchase the pins thru Pioneer.
That's True...
The Pioneer Numbers are PF-601 and PF-225.
The PF-601 is 0.310" Diameter by 1.500" Long which is Too Long.
The PF-225 is 0.310" Diameter by 0.500" Long which is Too Short.

The Tolerances are Listed as + 0.000"/- 0.005".
That Means that the Pins can Range from 0.305" to 0.310" in Diameter.

Our Pins are 0.3095" with a Tolerance of - 0.000"/+ 0.0002".
That Means that Our Pins are Going to Be 0.3095" to 0.3097" in Diameter.
Also, the Length is 1.000"

That's the Difference.

Larry S.
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Old 10-08-15, 10:51PM   #25
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The ones P-Dude got worked great ! On my stock block. But it's nice to have another source.
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Old 10-09-15, 06:01PM   #26
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Just ordered a set for my 444 will see how they go Have to get my block aligned honed quickly now and select my bearings and have measured to get journal sizes rod and main for my crank grinder to grind to for exact clearances. Is there any chance of cracking the bulkheads removing factory dowels or is this not a concern?
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Old 10-09-15, 08:07PM   #27
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Tell you one thing Larry is a great asset he makes some good products for Pontiac's.
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Old 10-10-15, 07:15AM   #28
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it would be nice to be able to obtain those dowels in a kit when needed.

just an fyi, if looking for a factory block, make sure it has large dowels in it already. if they are small diameter, offer less for the block, if it's 2 bolt and you want to convert to 4 bolt. the machine shop operation alone would cost 100 or more today, to have it drilled for the larger dowel size.
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Old 10-10-15, 09:46AM   #29
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Thumbs up Correct Tool for the Job

Quote:
Originally Posted by keith View Post
Just ordered a set for my 444 will see how they go Have to get my block aligned honed quickly now and select my bearings and have measured to get journal sizes rod and main for my crank grinder to grind to for exact clearances. Is there any chance of cracking the bulkheads removing factory dowels or is this not a concern?
Here's the Tool that we use to Pull the Dowel Pins.
Actually, this is the Tool that we use to Pull ALL Dowel Pins in All Applications.

Click image for larger version

Name:	Snap-On Dowel Pin Puller.jpg
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Snap-On Offers a Special 5/16" Collet that is Serrated. The Serrations Grab the Dowel Better.

They come out Fairly Easily with this Tool.

Thanks,
Larry S.
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