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Old 05-29-06, 04:41PM   #1
tweety
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Default Anyone use a lincoln migpac 10 welder?

I'm getting frustrated with this thing. I bought it a while back and haven't used it until lately. It's turning into a PITA real fast. I haven't used migs too much but I've had way better success with the ones I have used than I am with this thing. No matter how I try to set it up, either I burn through, or the weld seems to mostly pile up on top. To make matters worse, I got it used and it came without a manual. I'm on the verge of giving up on this thing and going back to gas welding the few patches I have left to do on the car. At least then I know I'll get good welds. (I've been gas welding for over 30 years) Has anybody here used these machines with any luck? Guess I need to know if it's me or the machine.
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Old 05-29-06, 05:45PM   #2
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Describe the settings you are using for wire speed and heat. Is this a 120V or 240V model? What is the model #? Most likely you can download the manual from Lincoln's website. What size wire and kind of sheilding gas are you using?
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Old 05-29-06, 06:11PM   #3
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Thanks for the response Mark. I'll fill in what I can. The model is Migpac 10. It's just a small 110 volt welder, one of those hobbyist machines. The settings on the dial for heat are A,B,C,D. The speed settings go from 1-10. If I use the A setting for heat, that's when the weld seems to just pile up on top and when I use the B setting that's when I get the most troubles burnin holes. The speed seems to work best around 5 on either heat setting. Going by a seat of my pants feel, I think that another heat setting between A and B would be about right for sheet metal, but it just isn't there. I'm using lincoln's .030 wire, simply because it's what I have, I'll get some thinner wire if that helps. The gas I'm using is called C-15 here in Canada, I don't know if you use the same terms for gas down there, but it's about 15% carbon dioxide and 85% argon, if I remember correctly. It's the only gas availiable in my town here. I tryed finding instuctions on Lincoln's site and got nowhere. That machine isn't even listed there. We have a Lincoln 175 at work. It's another 110 volt machine and I haven't had too much trouble with it the few times i've used it which is part of what makes me think that my problem may be my machine rather than me. oops, had to edit this, I'd put in zenon instead of argon. I'm a stupid dog.
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Old 05-29-06, 07:16PM   #4
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I don't know if it's the same as a lincoln 100 either, but I'll try those settings and see what happens. I'm getting a lot of splatter too with the gas shielding, I forgot to mention that. I also have my gas pressure set at 21 PSI running. Thanks for the tip Fireball.
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Old 05-29-06, 08:49PM   #5
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If you try .023" wire I think you will have better luck. The smaller wire will not need as much heat to form a molten puddle therefore will not burn through as easy on thin sheet metal. I am guessing around 20 ga. thickness. You have the right sheilding gas. Also try the pulse technique, if you haven't already, by pulling the trigger in short, quick bursts. The idea is to get good penetration but not let the base metal reach the melting point where it would blow through. This is critical when working on 30 to 40 year old cars where we know the sheet metal has seen better days. Good luck.
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Old 05-30-06, 12:03AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireball
I don't know if the welder you have is the same thing as a Lincoln 100. I have the 100. I set it at B 2.5. I have not used the gas set up with mine. I use the Lincoln brand flux core wire, I have used another brand but it did not work good at all. The flux core wire splatters easy but it does do the job on body panels. I have not had any burn through problems unless there is rust.
Get yourself a bottle and you wont have to worry about that god awfull filthy weld from the flux core
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Old 05-30-06, 05:32AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strelka Built
If you try .023" wire I think you will have better luck. The smaller wire will not need as much heat to form a molten puddle therefore will not burn through as easy on thin sheet metal. I am guessing around 20 ga. thickness. You have the right sheilding gas. Also try the pulse technique, if you haven't already, by pulling the trigger in short, quick bursts. The idea is to get good penetration but not let the base metal reach the melting point where it would blow through. This is critical when working on 30 to 40 year old cars where we know the sheet metal has seen better days. Good luck.
When I got to work today, I ordered a small roll of.023 wire to try out and see if it makes a difference. I have been stitch welding, about 1/2" long beads, then leaving a couple of inch gap and keep going back and slowly filling in travelling to different areas to try to keep the heat down. That approach has been helping, but not foolproof. By weekend my wire should be here and I can see if the thinner wire works out. Somehow I think that may be the answer.
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Old 05-30-06, 10:13AM   #8
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I have a Coba Pocket Mig and had the same problem; is it the machine or me. I emptied a spool of wire. After I replaced it I started having problems like yours. I took the new spool back to the welding supply thinking product defect...wrong. I picked up a spool of .035 instead of .023. Problem solved! Good luck.
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Old 05-30-06, 04:16PM   #9
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I'm definately not going to give up on sorting out the problem, although as I said I may resort to my old days and gas weld my patches as I really want to have the car in paint by the end of summer. With the amount of interest in this thread, now I feel obliged to finish sorting this out. Thanks for all the help so far guys, and please keep the suggestions coming. Damn this is a great site.
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Old 06-01-06, 06:03PM   #10
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Going from gas to Mig wll give you fits. All good tips here.

Having no reostat for speed nor power is your beggest poblem with your welder. I have a Weldpak 155 converted to Mig. I use the 'B' setting for sheetmetal, but can fine-tune the speed dial. When I make changes to the speed I just move it a hair one way or the other to get it in the right place. I cannot weld very thin or weak tin. anything like that gets the torch. Mig is the worst welding system there is. It's fast and easy. That's the only reason to use it. If you are comfortable with gas welding, I'd say do it that way. Are you familiar with hammer-welding with gas?

Here's three great tech articles for ya':

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...414&&showall=1

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=32050

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...235&&showall=1
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Old 06-01-06, 07:03PM   #11
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I'm a newbie myself, having previous gas and arc experience. Since your experience is gas welding, I think you should stick with that. You will get much better results, especially with the hammer-welding techniques. When I starting playing with that method, I was amazed at my results. The MIG just puts too much heat in too quickly. I ruined my first panel, then went back to practice on scrap. Then my second panel I was really proud of myself. I was at a friends house when I did it, and after he inspected my welds he said, "That's good, I couldn't have done better." Coming from a guy with 20+ years experience, I felt pretty cocky. Then my work cooled down, and the whole thing warped so bad I had to hammer it all in and plaster it with bondo!

Luckily, it's just a parts chaser truck I'm learning on. Soon I'll post a thread about the things NOT to do, with examples of my crappy panels. I'm getting better though. My truck is a rolling example of a learning process.

Also, one thing that really bit me in the ass; Keep your patches as small as possible. Get all the thin sheetmetal out, and trim the panel to fit. Most newbies, and some 'pros' chop out the shape of the whole patch panel. When you have multiple angles or planes to match up, the work get's exponentially harder.
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Old 06-05-06, 02:06AM   #12
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Success! The thinner wire did the trick. I had a couple of hang ups though naturally. The center hole on the spool of wire I bought was way too big and I was about to give up, but a pal told me he had a spool of .025 wire and let me use it. It took me two tries to get my heat range and speed and the machine was working great. I didn't have the time to do much on the car, but now it won't take much longer to finish the little bit of welding that's left and I'm on to the finishing work. Maybe this thing will be in paint by fall after all. [chris]
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Old 06-05-06, 02:52AM   #13
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I was still so hyped when I got home and posted my last reply here I forgot to add, thanks for all the suggestions and help guys. I guess my head was full of burning rubber.
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Old 08-08-06, 12:48PM   #14
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Yes, The thinner wire is the answer I also have the weldpack 100 and its a great welder, Just use small wire for sure. I have seen that the flux core is dirty but in some instances it can weld in areas that the mig is not too happy. I have used both in my machine and they only reason I use MIG over flux core is the clean welds and I heard that paint has issues over flux core wire in the future....Is this true?
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Old 08-08-06, 12:55PM   #15
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I run the really large rolls of wire in my machine, For like 10 bucks you can buy a adaptor to hold the large rolls on your small shaft spindle, Make sure to adjust the screw down in the shaft correctly, It makes sure the plastic screw doesn't bottom out on the spool. Also lightly oil the felt by the wire feeder to keep the liner smooth it will make the feed work much better! I just use light machine oil.
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