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Old 09-22-08, 12:59PM   #1
Zedo
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Default Made in USA paint spray guns- to hell with the Chinese crap

For all you painters out there, here is a great source of new spray guns made in USA- also high end made in Europe guns- and you can't beat the prices

the place is called www.spraygunworld.com



Binks #7 $269

http://www.spraygunworld.com/product...%207%20Gun.htm

http://search.cartserver.com/search/...IN-6100-1808-9




Astro "Binks #7" knockoff $34 way better than Harbor Freight/Chinese crap

http://search.cartserver.com/search/...keywords=AS7SP




CAT gravity feed conventional- patterned after high-end
Sata Jet 90 - cost is $272

http://www.spraygunworld.com/product...guar%20300.htm

http://search.cartserver.com/search/...words=CATJ300C




Sharpe 775- $128

http://search.cartserver.com/search/...ywords=SHP6835



The Sharpe gun is basically an updated model 75, it will spray the modern BC/CC/SS paints
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Old 09-22-08, 02:01PM   #2
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their website says the guns they sell are Made in USA- Europe- Japan- Italy

??

http://www.spraygunworld.com/


look down left side of page on link

the HF/Chinese guns available at local tool discount store, are not Astro/Sharpe/Binks/Sata/Devilbuss name brands, there is a difference in quality for sure
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Old 09-23-08, 03:23PM   #3
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There's a filter at the bottom of the paint cup that gets clogged or disentegrates on the cheap guns and keeps the paint from flowing. I removed mine and it works great now.
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Old 09-28-08, 09:26AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireball View Post
They make one of those HF guns with a 1.4 tip and another with a 1.5 tip. I have both new in the box.


that's a very small tip size compared to a conventional Binks, Sharpe, Devilbiss, etc. siphon feed gun

recently I bought (5) more spray guns for only $21, for entire lot, all siphon feed conventionals, here's what I got:

Binks #7 w/1.8 tip made in USA

Binks #7 made in USA under license by Sanborn (the big USA compressor company)- with stainless fluid passages and stainless spray head, 1.8 tip- this gun is no longer available new, but accepts all Binks parts- the only difference is a slightly better handle than a Binks

Taiwan knock-off of a Sharpe model 75 with 1.8 tip

Japan knock-off of a Devilbiss, with 2.0 tip- this gun has teflon seals and looks like it was only used once

Campbell Hausfeld DH5200 general purpose siphon/pressure bleeder/nonbleeder gun- this one is convertible for use with large/small compressors, thick/thin paint, and pressure/siphon feed. It has an internal passageway that leads down to cup, to pressurize cup and push paint out. It will accept both internal and external mix air caps. It is the only one with a 1.4 tip- it will spray anything from lacquer/enamels to thick latex, primers, sealers.

The Binks design guns with throw a 13" pattern with an 36SK cap, gets the job done very quickly- paint half a hood or half the roof in only a few passes, then move to other side of car. With the HVLP the painter has to overlap more often, and move in closer, and make more passes. HVLP is for someone who's not in a hurry, and not worried about production speed.

There are new "compliant" guns out now that offer faster production speed like an conventional Binks does, are legal to use in EPA controlled areas, but they are pricey. A "good" compliant gun costs $300-500. Basically I got these guns for $4.20 each- can't beat that deal. A new Binks Model 7 costs $289 today.

The spray gun market, like all other markets, is now saturated and flooded with cheap HVLP gravity guns- now one can buy a used high-end Binks or Sata Jet 90 gun for dirt cheap.
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Old 09-28-08, 09:41AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireball View Post
I used the made in the USA Sharpe gun for primer, it had a 2.2 tip, that gun also started slowing down after using it a few times. I don't know what you want for quality if you can use the $10.00 gun to paint a car. You can toss the gun and it still painted the car using a $10.00 gun. Go to a body shop where they keep the guns at and you will most likely see a big pile of used guns with different name brands on them. Those are the broken down guns,


Fireball, the guns you see in a big pile at body shops are not "broken down" guns- the conventional siphon feed and gravity feed guns have been outlawed by the EPA for emissions purposes- if a body shop even has one hanging from a nail in their paint booth, they can get a $1500 fine from EPA. All modern guns in many areas must be "compliant" and HVLP

If you buy a good Sharpe or Binks gun, and clean it carefully, it won't "break down"- my Sharpe 75 has the same needle/fluid tip in it for 26 years now. Still sprays like new. You have to remove cap, fluid tip, and needle- soak those parts in thinner- and use a pipe brush/thinner to clean the main paint passage and tube, that comes up from cup and then turns 90 degrees to fluid tip.

The worst thing to do is after a paint job to clean a gun, is to loosen the cap, put a rag over the nozzle, and shake the gun with thinner in the cup and pull trigger. Yes, it drives thinner/paint material backwards back into cup- but it also drives a paint/thinner mixture back into the fluid tip air jets, coating the inside of them, and partially blocking them- it also drives paint back up into the fan needle/adjustment area, and I've found dried paint all the way back into the handle where main air passage and air valve is.

The best way to clean a spray gun: immediately after painting the car, remove the nozzle, fluid tip, and needle and drop them in a container of thinner- scrub it clean with a brush, then blow it out with air. Then CAREFULLY use a pipe brush to clean the main paint pipe and passage up from cup and out to fluid tip area. This is the only area where the paint gets into, and the rest of gun will be perfectly clean.

All the paint gun mfrgs. at one time, had directions stating to load gun with thinner, shake paint gun with air cap loose, and put rag over nozzle, and pull trigger to clean it. That's the worst thing you can do actually. I used to clean guns that way, until I took them apart and saw what was happening. It blows paint back into other parts of the gun and clogs it. That's why they "slow down"- the air passages start getting blocked up.

You also need pipe cleaners to clean all the small passages in fluid tip assembly, not just middle large paint passage, but the air passages around it too. Catalyzed urethanes or epoxies in a gun harden up really bad. Also old lead based paint, is even harder to get off than urethane. Lead paint is nasty stuff- it has to be scrubbed off aluminum parts with a wire brush- modern strippers won't even touch it !
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Old 09-28-08, 09:44AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireball View Post
I don't care what the website says about the HF guns. I know what to expect, I have used them. I can take pictures of all that stuff including the Sharpe gun that messed up on me and the seal kit to fix it that is still in the unopened package.

The cheap guns will work of course- they just won't last as long. The metallurgy in the made in USA guns is superior, the needles/tips/nozzles won't wear out as easily. The main issue is, clean them.
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Old 09-28-08, 09:47AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireball View Post
when a spray gun leaks out of the fluid tip when loaded, it needs a new needle and/or fluid tip. It's worn out, or was damaged by someone trying to clean it

I've only seen ONE gun have that problem in my life, it was a cheap Craftsman gun. Most times it's because the owner cleaned the gun with a drill bit, wire, or torch tip cleaner- and gouged the needle/seat seal in the tip. so then it leaks paint and won't shut off when trigger is released.
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Old 09-28-08, 09:50AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Fireball View Post
If you want a Hot Rod black paint job, you can go to a John Deere dealer and buy a gallon of paint for less than $30.00 and use the $10.00 gun to spay it. You can also buy industrial paint at Lowes and they can mix it in any of the house colors they have in that brand of paint.

I have 2 gallons of free synthetic enamel brand new Dupont paint, that my wife got from work for free when she worked at MK Rail in personnel dept. They used it to repaint diesel locomotive bodies. I'm going to add flattener to it. The car is going to sit outside anyway, so who cares. I'm not putting a $5000 urethane BC/CC job on a car that's sitting outside with 1 foot of snow and leaves on it.
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Old 09-28-08, 09:55AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireball View Post
The only reason I even know those cheap Chinese guns work is because I had trouble with the Sharpe gun. I thought I was getting a made in the USA gun. I could not get the Sharpe gun to put on the clear right. When you are in a middle of a paint job you don't want trouble. I figured I had nothing to lose by using the $10.00 gun. That's when I found out it put on the metalic perfect and you could get the clear to flow with it.
base coat is easy to spray, clear coat is tricky

If you're going to spray clear with a conventional spray gun, you have to put the largest tip/needle set on it you can find- and the fastest/best atomizing air cap nozzle. The new clear paints are "high solids" to reduce emissions, and the gun can't suck it out of the cup fast enough. Using more air pressure helps, but then there's too much overspray and it goes on dry. Use a larger tip, and move in closer, experiment with air pressure settings. It will flow. I would not even attempt to spray any paint job with anything less than a 1.8 tip. They use those small tips for emissions purposes.

Also, use slower thinner, or even use a paint retarder to slow it down even more and let it flow out- usually the reasonit won't flow is, it's drying too fast- or the gun is not atomizing it- or the air pressure is too high/low.

It will flow with a retarder in it, believe me. I painted lacquer with retarder and it was flowing like enamel- I barely had to even buff it- it buffed right out to a shine with one compounding.. That's how GM used to paint lacquer cars, they laid it on really wet and it flowed, then they baked it and it flowed even more.
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Old 10-06-08, 06:02AM   #10
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I use an Ingersol Rand gun. I think it was about 120 at tractor supply. Worked good on my firewall and inner fenders.
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