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edreimer 01-01-09 08:13AM

Can this be tubbed?
 
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I am building a '76 Ventura for drag racing only. I started rebuilding the wheelhouses(rust) and noticed the unibody frame very close to the inner side of the wheelhouse. can this frame be cut into or do i need to weld in new frame members first. Is this one reason i dont see this year at the track? What are my options? I want to install a narrowed axle housing. Will the four link suspension crossmembers stiffen the chassis up enough to allow cutting into the stock frame? Im new to this and i really want to learn. Im not looking for an easy answer just the right one for what i want to build.Thanx for the help.

hp400dave 01-04-09 12:00AM

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If you want a 4 link, the rails, trunk and floor pans under the rear seat will need to come out. I am assuming that you want to do a square tube car. If so the rails will need to be 2"x3" and sweep up high with the 4 link brackets under them, at least that's the strongest way to do it. Have you considered a ladder bar instead? That is a little easier to do for a first timer and should work well. You can replace your factory sheet metal frame rails with 2"x3" frame rails. Make them start at the front sub frame and pass through the rear foot wells in the floor pan, which gets welded for strength, then follow under the floor, up over the axle, but keep them straight and narrower than stock and head through the trunk pan and connect to the rear valance area.

hp400dave 01-04-09 12:04AM

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Then you gain 5-6" in tire room. Now you can position your ladder bar cross member in between the new rails.

hp400dave 01-04-09 12:10AM

It's now a full frame car. You can extend your wheel tubs, or replace them all together. It's not that hard, just a lot of measuring. Visit Chris Alston Chassisworks website and click on the how to articles. There is some good info there and I also recommend their parts.

edreimer 01-04-09 05:35AM

WOW!!! Thanx Dave for the info. Rebuilding the frame rails and doing a ladder bar seems like the way to go.At least now i understand what my options are and why.The Chris Alston site was a huge help. Thank-you!

sleeper67 01-04-09 12:59PM

What's nice about what Dave showed you is you have the option for tire size. The only thing different would be the tin work depending on the size. 29X10.5W to 33X14. Then there is the wheelwell openings too.. Up to you. I'm sure he may chime in about this.

edreimer 01-24-09 11:35PM

One thing i dont fully understand is which is the better way to go; build a frame and tubs and then go get the rear and tires that will fit - or have the housing with tires under the car and build the car to fit!? [rolleyes]

hp400dave 01-25-09 12:06PM

1. Buy the tires and wheels that you want to run
2. cut out the wheel wells and anything else that is in the way of the new tires
3. put the tires up in the wheel wells and set up your car at ride height, or block up your tires at ride height if the body is off the ground or front sub frame.
4. start measuring and planning your build from there
5. before you pull out the new tires, take the measurements for the new axle width. If you are uncomfortable with this step, call the company that you will purchase the rear and / or axle shafts from, and get directions from them about the proper measurements that you need to supply to them.

jpizza5711 01-26-09 01:37AM

all good advice .if you get tires and wheels you want to use call morrison with size and your car model and they can supply every thing you need without mixing and matching parts from differnt companies.

edreimer 01-26-09 09:43AM

ok that makes sense Dave, then i will have something concrete to start from,measure from. If i know where the rear housing is positioned i can also locate the dropped cross member, for ladder bar length. Thanx!

SPDMETL 08-17-15 02:08AM

What happened to this car?


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